Reptile & Amphibian Forums

i purchased a pair of greens about 2 months ago. haven't sexed my self yet, still letting them settle in and get feeding underway.
i was told they were feeding on f/t rats. after about 3 weeks i tried feeding. nothing. tried live rats, nothing. i then turned to the posts here since it has been a while since i have kept greens. i read through the posts on problem feeders (well all of them really) and got ideas what i should do.
i saw a post that kelly put up on greens often prefering chicks for the first year. i don't know why i didnt think of it earlier but ordered some and 1 started feeding overnite first thing. it was the one starting to get thin. made me incredibly happy. the other was keeping its body weight well so i waited another week and still nothing. so i picked up a live 2 day old chick. still nothing.
still with Kelly's post, she said ducks were best. today about an hour ago i put a live 3 day old duckling in with it.
if this does not work, what else can i do? temp stays around 85. humidity is around 70%, 2 hide boxes ( 1 heat and 1 not) in a 28 qt rubber maid. in the bonus room so not alot of traffic except in the evenings when i get home to look in on everyone.
my yellows on the other hand eat everything i put in front of them.
thanks
Michael

Mike,

i really wouldnt worry about your situation too much,2 months in terms of young anacondas refusing food is quite common.Young greens especially wc ones can be a problem to get started feeding ive had some that took up to 6 months to take their first meal.Anacondas have very slow metabolisms so this large gap without eating does not seem to be a problem.Kelly is right in suggesting birds,chicks normally do the trick but in really stubborn cases dead/ live small finches seem to do the trick.
Also try feeding in the dark or overnight this canoften do the trick with shy feeders.

Dan

everything i have offered so far has been overnight. at least 24 hrs.
the one that is feeding took its 2nd meal last night.
thanks for the advice, and i will just try once a week till it works. really wish my step-mother still bred finches though, instead of the parakeets and cockatiel she does now.

Michael
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Michael

1.1 pastel boas
1.1 salmon boa
1.1 leucistic texas ratsnakes
3 alligator snappers

Try rubbing the slime of a green frog or bullfrog (Rana) on a live rat pup on the non feeding green.
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Thanks,

Frank Roberts

How big is he non feeding green, if larger use a larger prey source rubbed with the slime of the frog, no need to kill the frog. If this works just rub the prey animal less and less and eventually it will take the rodent without scent.
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Thanks,

Frank Roberts

Garter snakes have worked for me jump starting stubborn greens. I had one eating snakes before I could get it turned over to chicken parts. For some reason it was holding off on the day old chicks, but it would eat grocery store chicken parts (gizzards seemed to do well).

Another option (which I am not a huge fan of) is fish. And I don't think you will get the results you would get from birds or snakes...or even lizards..but it is worth a shot.

And just a little side note. Green Frogs and Bullfrogs would be Lithobates, not Rana.

Just for fun, this green ate its first meal after 7 months of life...and that meal was a garter snake. I tried many other things first. Now it is big and healthy and never refuses huge rats.

Sorry I am OLD SCHOOL and do not recognize Lithobates as a valid change in the nomenclature.
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Thanks,

Frank Roberts

How do you like this picture of our Hamadryas hannah? : )

King Cobra...I have been thru Naja, Ophiophagus...etc...

But I DO remember reading a very long time ago they where called The Hamadryad.
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Thanks,

Frank Roberts

are the only species in this genera ?

( possibly up to six species ? )
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Thanks,

Frank Roberts

>>are the only species in this genera ?
>>
>>( possibly up to six species ? )
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>>Thanks,
>>
>>Frank Roberts
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Thanks,

Frank Roberts

I'm not sure I understand the question. I was just being a little sarcastic. King Cobras were in the genus Hamadryas a long time ago.

Once the CHAH took on the accepted change of new world Rana to mostly Lithobates...it makes sense (to me at least). We can't call every frog in the world Rana. So unfortunately for us new world folks, it looks like we have to change.

We tend to drag our feet a bit on taxonomic changes. People did the same thing with the new world Elaphe changes. I understand the people who didn't think Pantherophis was the answer, but it was certainly the step in the right direction, and none were bieng put back in Elaphe. So I think we have to move forward in understanding relationships. Just my thought.

If you think the Lithobates movement is not on the right path, I would love to hear why...as clearly some changes might need more work (and probably always will), but I don't really see the flaw in this one.

Were you asking about the work being done on King Cobras now and where there taxonomy sits? Because to be honest, I think it is still fairly up in the air and there will be some big splits.

>>Were you asking about the work being done on King Cobras now and where there taxonomy sits? Because to be honest, I think it is still fairly up in the air and there will be some big splits.

Yes that's what I meant. From some things I have read there will be at least 6 different species or subspecies (can't remember).

I guess I stopped studying the nomenclature awhile ago, and many only recognize Lithobates as a subgenera of Rana. From what I have read Frost's work is under scrutiny (like all taxonomic changes)and since I am only a hobbyist I don't feel the need to accept every little change they make.

I do think most reptile and amphibian nomenclature should be revised, but getting everyone on the same page seems impossible.
One reason I don't agree with Frost....

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Thanks,

Frank Roberts

Yes, there is going to be some big changes with the King Cobras. I heard something like 6 as well. Originally I thought it was going to be 3 species with subspecies extention. But I honestly don't know where it is now.

With the Lothobates, Rana deal. I liked your link. But the CNAH is pretty good about holding on changes if something does not compute. This is where I was thinking we had something to stick with for a little bit that isn't going back.

"Che et al. (2007 Molecular Phylogenetics and Evolution 43: 1-13) provided additional evidence to support the recommendation of Frost et al. (2006; see above) that North American ranid frogs be placed in two genera, Rana and Lithobates. "

I am not extremely huge into taxonomic changes either, but I do like when people bring new things to my attention to keep the thought process on relationships relatively sharp : ) Now you have me wanting to contact some people to see where the Ophiophagus complex sits.

i have a male green that will only eat when it is in the water. it acts like its afraid of the food but as soon as i pick him up and place him in the water he aggressively strikes whatever kind of food i offer. i suggest providing a water bowl large enough for the snake to soak. when the snake is in the water, dangle a frozen thawed food item in its line of sight and see if the snake reacts. good luck.

when talking to a friend, suggested the same thing. i cut down a rubbermaid so it would be level with the substrate and put silk plants within to give more cover.
i do have to clean it way more now, but still no luck with that. it was kinda funny. i woke up getting ready for luck and looked to see if it had eaten the live chick i put in. the chick was perched on the side and the anaconda was in one of the other hides.
i know kelly doesnt recommend having soaking bowls because it gets difficult later. but i figured i could let them "grow out" of the bowls. as if the water area would "dry up" in the wild.
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Michael

1.1 yellow anacondas
1.1 green anacondas
1.0 het albino tiger retic
0.1 lavander albino retic
1.1 brazilian rainbows
1.0 albino ball python
0.2 het albino ball python
0.1 salmon boa
1.1 common boas

As Dan mentioned earlier, a couple of months is not a big issue for young greens. I have seen neonates go 4 to 6 months without feeding and suddenly take off and eat every time offered. I have had captive born start feeding anywhere from 1 to 5 months of age, with 2 to 3 months being about typical. My weight studies over the last 10 years or so have shown that non-feeding neonate greens lose about 2 grams per week of body weight, and that is with a typical birth weight of around 250 grams. This gives them quite a bit of time to settle in before they start feeding. Most will usually start on chicks as a first meal, but that is also based on when they are ready to start feeding. A few will start on rodents, but that is not as typical as with birds. Some will more readily eat different types of birds as well ( duckling, young sparrow, finch, pigeon chick, etc.), but chicken chicks are usually used as they have the easiest availability, and most greens will readily eat them.

I am definitely not in disagreement on the use of a pool to get a green to start feeding, but my experience shows that it is most likely not needed except possibly in an unusual case. I would also avoid reptile and amphibian prey if possible due to parasite concerns. In my opinion, a secure hide is more important to a young green than a pool or about anything else to get them relaxed and established enough to start feeding. A low profile hide box that is just large enough for them to fit under comfortably is best. Prey should be left in overnight, but always make sure you place the prey item in the cage before the lights go out. I know it does not make sense, but greens are extremely nervous in the dark, and are much more easily startled at night than during daylight hours. Not sure on the reason, but my guess would be that most predators of young greens in the wild are more active at night. Additionally, greens are not truly nocturnal, but actually crepuscular, being most active at dawn and dusk.

Not sure if you have wild caught or captive born young, but the wild caught greens will obviously usually take longer to acclimate and start feeding. Sounds like one of them will not be a problem, and I would give the other some more time to come around before getting too concerned at this point. Your set up seems good as long as the hides aren’t too large and the non-feeder is in good health. I would be curious as to the weight and length of these young if you are able to get them sometime. Thanks and let us know how it goes.

Kelly

thanks kelly,
i will get the weights and pics of them tonight when i get home.
they are in good shape. the one that is feeding has fed twice now.
i picked up some small ducklings and still no response. i tried last friday. not going to bother again until next friday.
the hides they have are 9" X 6" X 1.5". they are the white utility trays you can get from walmart or lowes. i picked up a bunch from lowes one time for 10 cents a piece. i just cut a square out of the edge so they can get in. the openings are all facing away from the front of the cage.
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Michael

1.1 yellow anacondas
1.1 green anacondas
1.0 het albino tiger retic
0.1 lavander albino retic
1.1 brazilian rainbows
1.0 albino ball python
0.2 het albino ball python
0.1 salmon boa
1.1 common boas

kelly sorry it has taken me so long. my wife has some heart issues and they take precedent.
i can't remember how to post images. if you could help me with that or email me at
reptilespawn@comcast.net

Michael
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Michael

1.1 yellow anacondas
1.1 green anacondas
1.0 het albino tiger retic
0.1 lavander albino retic
1.1 brazilian rainbows
1.0 albino ball python
0.2 het albino ball python
0.1 salmon boa
1.1 common boas