Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I'm getting a yearling microlepis sometime next week. I'm working on mysetup right now and just need to do some fine tuning. I've had some good advice from a reputable breeder, but I wanted to hear some other opinions.

What I already have: 75 gallon aquarium, Zoomed 100w Powersun MVB brand new, Ceramic clamp lamp, 3 gal sterlite box w/18in of black corrugated drainage tubing for hide, several large flat rocks with concrete supports for stacking, 36in flourescent fixture w/zoomed 10.0 bulb(probably not using it w/MVB)

What I'm getting: Tempgun, Mazuri Tortoise Diet, Repashy Uro Dust, MinerAll.

What I'm probably going to get and the questions:

1. Wild bird seed/millet for substrate.
Do I need to sift the other components of this mix out of the millet? I'm having trouble finding straight millet w/o sunflowers seeds and the like.

2. Ceramic heat emitter? I was going to used some regular halogen floods for extra heat as I have a ton of them, but have been considering these. It would be nice to be able to leave it on as a safety net at night. What wattage would be best for a 75gal tank? 60? 100? I won't use a UTH b/c it will be sitting on a wood slab.

What are people's opinions on the MVBs? I'm likely to use it and have been told it will be plenty for UVB. I shouldn't need any additional flourescents with it should I?

Tahnks for the help.

75 gallon will suffice for a short time, but as they grow they will need a larger enclosure.
Lighting you will have to play with and see if you can achieve the proper temp gradient. If you are using the MVB, you dont really need the tube UVB but just be sure to stick to the mfg's recommended distances.

"What I'm getting: Tempgun, Mazuri Tortoise Diet, Repashy Uro Dust, MinerAll."
I would suggest a good digital thermometer for measuring your ambient temps... also, I strongly suggest against using the uro dust. I noticed a decrease in appetite and odd sized fecals when mine ate it. I have stopped using it entirely. I have also only fed a small small amount of mazuri pellets. MinerALL I use once a week.

As for substrate, you can also use pool filter sand or washed, sifted playsand.. but ONLY if the Uro is over 6" in total length, to decrease the risk of impaction. If it is under 6" I would use paper towel, newspaper, or slate as your substrate.

Just have patience and test test test temps until they are correct. Better to have everything setup before you get the Uro. Also make sure you got a good varied diet for them as well.

I'll probably go to an at least 6 ft stock tank when the uro is big enough.

About the dust, how were you using it? As a staple or just a supplement? I'd been advised to just sprinkle it on greens along with the crushed tortoise diet.

I will get a digital theromometer for ambient temps.

Summer os coming, so do you have any advice for outdoor caging on non-rainy days?

I would avoid the outdoor enclosure, unless you can safely protect the Uro.. which is very difficult to do. You will need a screen to keep birds out, but then the screen will block beneficial uvb. Using a glass fish tank with a screen top will get too hot and basically cook the uro..

I used the uro dust twice a week, then down to once a week, sprinkled on the greens. Every day that ate it, their stools were little pellets or runny, or not very white urates.. i didnt feel comfortable using it after that. Many others have mentioned similar patterns of odd stool or behaviors.

>>Summer os coming, so do you have any advice for outdoor caging on non-rainy days?

My advice would be to be extremely careful!! You would probably need to build something rather than modify an existing container unless it's a seriously large stock tank, and that might get too hot. You could use metal screening, but it needs to be something along the lines of 1/4" hardware cloth or larger in order for UVB to penetrate. The 1/4" even blocks some (it's what I use on my outdoor collared cage, and I've checked it), but lets most through.

I've not kept Egyptians, but they are very large, heavy, and STRONG, so the enclosure would have to be able to stand up to that. They also dig like crazy (tunnels on the order of several feet deep and many more feet long), so you wouldn't be able to have an open floored enclosure most likely.

Just some thoughts.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Saharan Uros (Joe and Arthur)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
1.1 Collared Lizard (Ripcord and Rorschach)
2.0 Green Anoles (Bowser and Sprocket)
1.1 Chubby Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

I think you are in pretty good shape.
If the uro does well, if will pretty quickly out grow a aquarium.
I have found (and this is not an absolute) that I supplement my animals very sparingly. Miner al (I)
The key is to vary the diet. Offer a tremendous amount of different food items. There are a few lists on the net that will get you started. A yearling egyptian, of which I still have three, can vary in size from 14" to 9", will eat alot of greens eveyday, just do not make the sizes too big or it may be reluctant to eat. Dry foods...try not to offer too many dry foods until your uro is fully eating greens and well hydrated.

Also, these animals are prone to acclimatization issues, consult the forum, but do not panic. Just let it relax and hide as much as possible for the first few weeks.
On the hide, make sure it is low. Uros like to be able to wedge themselves into their hide. It gives them a sense of security, especially when newly transplanted.
I've kept mine(mostly egyptians) on sand and paper towels(hatchlings). I've kept 4 month olds on sand with no ill effects, but the rule is 6 months for a healthy individuals.

Temps...
Depending on how cold your nights get, I doubt you will need the Ceramic. My summer temps:
125 under the light to 110F hot end / 90 cool end Daytime to 80 night( sometimes much warmer)

Winter times 110F under light 100 hot end - 80 cool daytime,
65F nights.
I have never brumated my animals.
I live in SO Cal, so it is pretty temperate climate.

There is my two cents.
Good luck when you get him. Ask many questions.
This is a great source of info by some really cool folks.
Ed

>>I'm getting a yearling microlepis sometime next week. I'm working on mysetup right now and just need to do some fine tuning. I've had some good advice from a reputable breeder, but I wanted to hear some other opinions.
>>
>>What I already have: 75 gallon aquarium, Zoomed 100w Powersun MVB brand new, Ceramic clamp lamp, 3 gal sterlite box w/18in of black corrugated drainage tubing for hide, several large flat rocks with concrete supports for stacking, 36in flourescent fixture w/zoomed 10.0 bulb(probably not using it w/MVB)
>>
>>What I'm getting: Tempgun, Mazuri Tortoise Diet, Repashy Uro Dust, MinerAll.
>>
>>What I'm probably going to get and the questions:
>>
>>1. Wild bird seed/millet for substrate.
>>Do I need to sift the other components of this mix out of the millet? I'm having trouble finding straight millet w/o sunflowers seeds and the like.
>>
>>2. Ceramic heat emitter? I was going to used some regular halogen floods for extra heat as I have a ton of them, but have been considering these. It would be nice to be able to leave it on as a safety net at night. What wattage would be best for a 75gal tank? 60? 100? I won't use a UTH b/c it will be sitting on a wood slab.
>>
>>What are people's opinions on the MVBs? I'm likely to use it and have been told it will be plenty for UVB. I shouldn't need any additional flourescents with it should I?
>>
>>Tahnks for the help.