Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Well, if I understand it correctly (and I may not because the whole thing really confuses me,) chams need UVB in order to produce Vit D, which then allows them to utilize the calcium in their bodies. Is that it, basically? And if so, what role does liquid vitamin D play? Can it be used to supplement the UVB lights? Can I alternate Vitamin D with UVB lights, or better yet, just skip the artificial lights altogether and put my cham on the porch during the afternoon sunlight?
Also, is it better to use plain calcium for crickets, or one with VitD added?
And while I'm asking, just how much supplement do you have to shake on the crickets? I've been using about a tablespoonful per bag, but that's turning out to be a little expensive
Thank you

It's good that you are concerned looking for the best way to care for your cham.Well,the tablespoon of powder is WAY too much...good thing you asked.All you need is a pinch so that the crix are lightly covered.Don't overlook greens...they are loaded with calcium and most veileds[I think that's what you have?]will eat...collard,turnip,mustard greens attach a large leaf with a veggie clip and they will munch.If your porch allows the sun in through a screen then your cham.is receiving the D3 that it needs but you should still use at least a small amount of powder b/c the screen filters out SOME of the uvb.I wouldn't bother with liquid calcium.I have raised veileds bearded dragons for 16 years and never used it.Don't forget to gut-load the crix...they can eat greens as well as oatmeal or bran,just don't let anything get moldy.Natural food is preferred[just like for humans] over the commercial crick. food,but some people buy it anyway.

You are right that exposure to UVB (from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light, neither of which should pass through glass or plastic) will allow the chameleon to produce D3 which will allow it to use the calcium in its system. Sunlight is the best source of UVB and you likely don't have to add any D3 through supplements if your chameleon gets enough sunlight. (It needs to be able to move out of the sunlight though when it wants to.)

Since many of the insects used as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous, its important to dust the insects at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to make up for it.

The use of a supplement that has D3 in it IMHO is just to make sure that the chameleon gets a base amount that will not create an overdose and the UVB light will do the rest. I dust twice a month lightly with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder.

I also dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene (prOformed)source of vitamin A. Beta carotene will not build up in the system like prEformed vitamin A will. However its not certain whether all/any chameleons can convert beta carotene or not...so some people give their chameleons a little prEformed once in a while. Be careful though...excess prEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and also interfere with the D3 and push the chameleon towards MBD.

Gutloading/feeding the insects a nutritious diet is also important. For crickets, roaches, superworms...a wide variety of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, celery leaves, zucchini, etc.) can be used.

If you have a veiled chameleon, you can feed these same greens and veggies to it along with a small amount of fruit (apple, pear, melon, berries, etc.).

Appropriate temperatures aid in digestion so that's important too.

Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phos. are all important players in bone health and other systems and need to be in balance. When trying to attain a balance you need to look at the supplements, what you feed to the chameleon and what you feed to the insects.

Hope this helps!
BTW...I've been keeping chameleons for over 20 years.