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but this was the most active gecko forum and i thought you guys could help. recently got tokay gecko from a freind that wasnt taking very good care of it he was going on a trip and i was able to bribe him with 20 bucks to just give it to me. probably more than he paid for it in the first place. I have read a few caresheets but conflicting info I got it small plastic repti tank with small undertank heat pad, no temp gauge. Since I have put it in a 10 gallon tank i had laying around with about 3 inches of eco earth for humidity temps on hot side 83/85 70/73 on cool side with 75 watt moonlight bulb on top of metal screen top partially covered to keep in some humidity. hides on both sides, starting to come out of the hides and crawl up the glass has been two days now dont think it has eaten anything yet.Im keeping the tank darker during the day that seems to be helping.Been leaving it alone exept for misting cage I know it needs a bigger cage just cant get one right now but Iam going to build it up

I think Iran out of room there going to build it up today with some scraps of lexan about another 12 inches so cage will 2 feet tall might need abigger bulb no problem. Sorry for the long post thaught it was important to tell the hole story im not the type of person that gets something with out being ready for it this just kind of hapend. Any info help or direction to get info would be much appreciated.
thanks for reading

PS quite the attitude ben bit three times already just moving it any info on that would be great want to work with it to be tame or at least semi handlable
thanks again

Hi
I see no ones has replyed so ill give it a shot. I rescued a baby tokay a few months back as well. Id say just keep the humidity and heat up. If you feed him crickets make sure to put a carrot or potato in the cage so that if they arent eaten they dont pick on the gecko. You can also try a dish with mealworms (smooth sided so they dont crawl out), this makes it easier to judge how much it is eating.

If you really want to handle him try with gloves and keep him up higher than your head, this usually keeps them more calm, because they like hieghts. but in all honesty, it is best to leave him alone as a display animal. They can get stressed pretty easily.

Feel free to message me and ill try to answer any specific questions you may have.
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"If you talk to animals,
they will talk with you
and you will know each other.

If you do not talk to them,
you will not know them,
and what you do not know
you will fear.

What one fears,
one destroys."
.

-Chief Dan George

thanks for the reply I check every day was begining to think I wasnt going to get one. Hhave bigger cage now 28t 20w 12d.Still working out temp/hum in bigger cage. There is a basking spot of 101 at top cool side top 80ish give or take a few bot low 70s both sides from what ive read that should be ok unsure about the hot spot being to hot have expiremented with different bulbs that seems to be the best gradient in the cage so far. As for eating still dont think much if any been 3 weeks. Seems to be out more in taller cage dont know if thats real progress getting worried about the eating. it seems to hang out in the part of the cage that stays about 75. for more details about the cage lots of climbing branches a pvc tunnel that run across the whole top for different temps with corners pointing down so you cant see in fake plants hanging on the sides with room to climb through. sorry for the long posts but I know when you are looking for help the more detail you can give the better. Again thanks

101 is to hot, try raising the bulb up higher off of the cage. Make sure to spray the cage a couple times a day at least, this supplies him with drinking water as well as raises the humidity, remember that the heat bulbs are going to dry out the enclosure quickly. Fake plants are great, these guys like to be vertical, usually climbing on the sides of their enclosure hiding behind tall plants.

Always count the amount of food you put in the cage be it crickets, roaches or mealworms.. or what other invertibrates you may choose. Crickets can be difficult because they are good at hiding, but if you have no escape route for them and they are the large crickets, you will find dead ones after a couple weeks if he is not eating, as they have a short lifespan. (always put in a potato or carrot for the crickets, i think i mentioned that before).
Again, as mentioned before these guys are much better kept as display animals, and only handled when absolutely necessary. But if you insist on handling it, wait until you are positive its eating. Otherwise, you will have to start all over again to get him to feel safe.
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"If you talk to animals,
they will talk with you
and you will know each other.

If you do not talk to them,
you will not know them,
and what you do not know
you will fear.

What one fears,
one destroys."
.

-Chief Dan George

thanks for thequick response Iwill raise the light just wanted to clairify 101 is a surface temp just below the light the air temp there is only 90ish as I said before that is the best gradient in the cage with the most activity ive seen yet a majority of the cage is in the low to mid 80s also I have no expirience with this just my observation any other helpfull tips would be greatly appreciated also I dont mind not handling it and I do spray the cage down a couple times a day
thanks again Derek

first off tokays are definately the meanest of the geckos. Its actually advised NOT to handle tokays very much. (like a chameleon.) but there have been cases of tame tokays (whether or not they are "healthy" is not known) so i would advise that you use him as a display and if you are going to handle him handle him over short increments of time. (once again like a chameleon) just my advice. if you have any more questions jus email me at reaperreptiles@aol.com

good luck!

-Nick
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REAPER REPTILES