Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I see this forum isn't very active, but I'll post anyway. I recently acquired a D. p. edwardsii (dumped on my doorstep by god knows who) and would like some specifics on husbandry. I have him setup in a 6 quart sterilite with a thin layer of perlite free topsoil misted so the humidity is around 70%. I am keeping the little bugger at room temp (~70 degrees) with several nice flat rock and bark hides. I fed him/her last night (the snake is 3" long and I fed it a 3/4" P. cinereus) and it did eat, which gives me a little peace of mind. Am I missing anything? I am able and willing to do the cinereus diet but am curious whether they can eat other local salamanders (P. glutinosis, E. bislineata, D. fuscus, P. electromorphus, etc.)as well. Right now I'm resigned to Plethodontids due to size of the snake, but I reckon this would be useful info to have. Also, at this size how frequently should I feed him? Twice weekly like other NA colubrids? At what size can I back off to once weekly or bi-weekly if this is the case? LAstly, any suggestion on how to freezesalamanders without freeze-drying them?

I would probably feed your ringneck a bit more often than twice weekly -- younger ones tend to eat a lot, and you can back off to twice or possibly once weekly after he's gained some size. Your caging sounds fine (though I haven't kept many ringnecks, just redbellies and garters), but unless you feel like he's just hatched don't keep the humidity high all the time. Then again, I'm not sure what kind of habitat your subspecies is native to. As for feeding, salamanders will be fine when he grows but remember that ringnecks have an extremely variable diet in nature. Among other things, they have been known to eat amphibians, other snakes and lizards, small minnows, and worms and slugs. The diet should be similar to that of a garter snake, but with less fish and smaller portions, obviously. If you like using salamanders, I would stick to plethodontids. Some of the mole salamanders are poisonous, and some species have been known to attack small snakes. Just remember that colubrids that grow up with a certain prey type tend to prefer that later in life (a study with garters).

Hope this helps ...
pinstripe

I've raised them from egg to adult on just "Redbacks". Offer other choices of appropriate size but P. cinereus is a mainstay in the Northeast.
.
Offer a dryer cover at one end of the container,
.
"suggestion on how to freezesalamanders without freeze-drying them"
Freeze them in small blocks of water in zip locks. (Works well for freezing fresh fish for your table as well!)

-----
Regards, Bill McGighan

Thank you guys! I would have to say the little guy is fairly new (about 3" long) so he does have some growing to do! Finding little plethodontids has proven a bit more challenging than previously thought, but I have about 7 set up in their own tank right now awaiting fate . He took a second meal last night and looks nice and plump~I'll have to try to get some pics on here. To answer locality questions I'm in northern West Virginia and habitat I've found adults in is usually forest or streams' edge, under large flat stones, and always damp (but not wet). I'd just never encountered a baby and decided to give it a go in captivity. I've always liked the species but always prefer to keep juveniles if the animal is wild caught. I'll have to try fish too to see if I can get some variety in there, while I would prefer to stay away from inverts (better nutrition with vertebrates). Also, no danger of me using mole salamanders for food, as no Ambystoma are documented in my county and if I found one I would be calling the MU herp lab! (thanks for the info anyway though, it is goodf to know)

If the quantity of small Redbacks is low, another option for a hatchling supplement is taking the just the tails from adult Redbacks. The adults regenerate with no negative side effects.
.
Small tadpoles work sometimes.
.
.
" I'll have to try fish "
Precautionary note.. Don't use fish very often and never use them that have been frozen more than a month. (Thiaminase)
Good Luck

-----
Regards, Bill McGighan

it's been a while since I've attempted to keep a baby northern ringneck, I used to keep them in very small containers with moss and bark, and I'd wet some of the moss every couple days. I'd place worms on the top of the moss once a week. and for the rest of the week I'd leave them alone. eventually the snakes would learn that opening the lid often meant food.
I've gotten baby northerns to eat guppies, worms, tadpoles, salamanders, and baby toads.

ringneck snakes are difficult to keep, especially baby ones, you're probably better off letting it go.

-----
Mike
KingPin Reptiles
www.kingpinreptiles.com

The most important thing to know about ringnecks, other then to have a few salamander about for scenting their food, is they are escape artist! make sure your cage is secure!