Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I just got a White Lipped Python a week ago, it's only about 50 cm long (*still a baby i suppose)
This is my 1st time working with this species..

When i first got it (*bought it via internet), i found there were some slight elevations on the scales, looks like multiple bulging (*makes me wonder what those are)
have u guyz ever experienced this problem with babies WLP? any treatments?

Here's the picture

I'd also like to ask about WLP's humidity, how much humidity is needed for this species?
65-70%?
Is the respiratory infection in WLPs caused by too low humidity? Because what i know with most other species is that respiratory problems happen when humidity is too high..

Any suggestions are welcome and appreciated ^^

It is hard to tell from the photo, but going by your description, this appears to be what is commonly referred to as “blister disease”. This is a bacterial infection within the first few upper layers of the skin, and is typically caused by a prolonged exposure to damp substrate. High ambient humidity alone will not cause this condition. You can still maintain the ambient humidity in the 65 to 75% range, but the substrate needs to be completely dry to effectively resolve this issue. If it does not get any more serious than what you are currently seeing, the next shed by this snake should show a great improvement. If it appears to be advancing slightly, a small amount of Neosporin or Polysporin ointment can be used. If it appears to be advancing greatly, a vet visit may be in order.

Based on my personal experience of many years, I believe that it is extremely rare for an RI to be caused by a cage humidity that is too high if the cage environment is clean. Most RI’s are initiated by humidity levels that are too low, or by temps that are too low, or both. I have seen examples of RI development in tropical boids in a few cases where the temps were in the optimal range, but the ambient humidity was very low. Also, to more effectively treat an RI in boids, the cage humidity levels should be raised, as further drying of the lung tissue will advance the infection, and also limit the effectiveness of any antibiotic if one is being used.

Kelly

Surprisingly, this snake just finished shedding this morning and it showed great improvements..
there are still some slight bulgings but they've gone better by now ^^
So to make sure, i apply antibiotic ointment on the bulgings, is this ok?

WeLL, I see this so called "Blister disease" often happen in my friends' WLPs here (*especially babies one), is this disease really common in babies WLPs?

So what u said about RI is that high humidity will be all right if the environment is clean, right?
What are the symptoms of RI in WLPs?
(*I've never experienced any RI in any of my snakes before)
Thanks a lot ^^

Glad to hear of the improvement, and typically, shedding will invariably improve this condition when they are kept on a clean, dry substrate. You could still use antibiotic ointment sparingly on the remaining bulging scales if they still look infected. Higher humidity will not cause any additional problems as long as the substrate is dry.

Early signs of an RI in snakes are usually a wheezing, or wet hiss or ticking sound during breathing, and an increase in clear mucous in the mouth. As the infection progresses, the wheezing will usually move more into a type of cough as the thicker mucous is expelled. The mucous also changes from clear to a more opaque material in serious infections. Many snakes will hold their heads up and breath open mouth during these later stages as well. You may also see dried mucous around the openings of the nares.

In the early stages of an RI, most times it can be resolved by increasing temps 24/7 and increasing humidity, all without the use of any drugs. However, the more severe later stages will usually require antibiotics in almost all cases.

Kelly

thanks everyone, i think the skin problem is getting better

But this baby WLP (around 30 cm long) still doesn't wanna eat, i've tried "tease-feeding" it but it only kept striking at the pinky without any constriction, it once constricted but release it again (only to kill it, i fed live pinky mouse)..
i've also tried leaving the live pinky overnight in an opaque enclosure but still no dice..

do u guyz have any suggestion regarding this matter? it's been 2 weeks without food since i got it..
the previous owner said he fed pinky mouse..
if u guyz ever experienced this and have solutions, could u please help me out?
thanks ^^

by the way, i also wanna know how to keep the substate dry if u keep humidity up just like kelly said? Because if u mist the enclosure, the substrate (i use newspaper substrate) will also get wet, won't it?

To increase humidity in a small container cage and keep the floor dry, I use a small dish filled with wet paper towels. This is typically placed over an under the cage heat source and replace the paper towels every few days.

WLP are extremely nervous as newborns and can be distracted by even the slightest move you make during any feeding attempts. Move as little as possible during feeding and freeze when they grab the food item being offered until they are through swallowing. Very similar procedure used to get some young tree vipers feeding. Once they have fed a few times it will get much easier. Good luck,

Kelly

the baby finally just finished eating thanks to you kelly ^^

I remember your advice to freeze when the snake grabs the pinky so i did that and it worked ^^

But i fed it with a frozen thawed pinky, is it ok?
I took a glass of hot water (not a boiled one), probably around 70c and i put the pinky in the water for 20 minutes, till i felt it was warm enough..
is it ok?
i'm just afraid the snake will vomit

Thanks

Frozen thawed not an issue and hot tap water is plenty warm to thaw even larger mice in a large enough container.

Kelly

um, how long do I have to feed the snake and FREEZE like that?
i successfully fed it again just now but i still have to freeze, how long does it take for the snake to finally comfortable when i'm not freeze anymore?