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I try to handle my Blood as much as possible.Out side of keeping him used to me I heard it helps for other reasons.One is that it seems more (food) goes into him than what comes out.I'm guessing some or most of his weight is idle food.So I try to soak him and handle him as much as possible.I cannot control the heat in my basement apartment.I have a thermometer( Outside cage)& temp gun.When I handled him today the temperatue was about 72.Is this OK ? what would be the border temperature ? I believe he is a black and red hybrid based on earlier posts (blood type) Thank You HS

i think 72F is fine...our body temperature will provide a warm place and keep it warm while handling. However I wouldn't keep the blood out of its cage for long periods of time...handling can still be stressful so keep handling sessions short. It is also possible for a blood to get too warm if handled a long time. Our body temperatures are higher than most snakes like to be act, other than for basking purposes. If the snake feels warm to you after handling, its probably getting too warm and would be best to put it into its cage...Our body temperatures are around 96F and many people have warm hands too.
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PHLdyPayne

Forum Princess

>>I try to handle my Blood as much as possible.Out side of keeping him used to me I heard it helps for other reasons.One is that it seems more (food) goes into him than what comes out.I'm guessing some or most of his weight is idle food.So I try to soak him and handle him as much as possible.I cannot control the heat in my basement apartment.I have a thermometer( Outside cage)& temp gun.When I handled him today the temperatue was about 72.Is this OK ? what would be the border temperature ? I believe he is a black and red hybrid based on earlier posts (blood type) Thank You HS

Do you mean that is the temp inside the cage? If so, that's too cold to be keeping him at for an extended period of time.

After re-reading my post I realized I didn't specify I meant the temps in my apartment outside the cage which can go below 72 especially during winter.It's hard for me to calculate because outside of him being a hybrid I don't know the difference in temperature between the areas of Sumatra where Blacks and Reds live.I guess my question would be what temperature level would be a danger degree.From what I understand they are Nocturnal.Does anyone know the average temp during the snakes active period?

>>After re-reading my post I realized I didn't specify I meant the temps in my apartment outside the cage which can go below 72 especially during winter.It's hard for me to calculate because outside of him being a hybrid I don't know the difference in temperature between the areas of Sumatra where Blacks and Reds live.I guess my question would be what temperature level would be a danger degree.From what I understand they are Nocturnal.Does anyone know the average temp during the snakes active period?

Being a little cool for short periods of time isn't going to be a problem.
http://www.climatetemp.info/indonesia/padang-sumatra.html#imperial

Human Body Temp is actually 98.6F
You will not over heat your Blood Python by merely handling it.
However, you may cause it undue stress from over handling.

Many keepers may have temperature ranges that seem to work best for them.
I suspect that there is a considerable bit of variation in those ranges.

Years ago I kept Blood Pythons, Sumatran Short Tailed Pythons and Borneo Short-Tailed Pythons...and bred these species on a regular basis.
Although I love all of them... I decided to try to focus my energy on my "favorites".
I am a Blood guy at heart.
So, these days I no longer work with the Short-Tailed Pythons...as I am concentrating on the Blood Pythons (brongersmai).

For me the best temps have been to maintain an ambient temperature of about 82F
and then to provide a warmer location within the enclosure at about 88-89F.
I DO NOT using any type of heat lights...as they are better suited for making snake jerky (they dry everything out, lol).

Flexwatt or a heat pad on a reliable thermostatic control is fine.
An appropriately sized cage will allow you to create a true thermal gradient.
Providing a thermal gradient allows the animal to decide what temperature it prefers.

I usually notice my snakes on the heated ends of the enclosures after feeding.
They find a "comfortably warm" place to digest their meals.
The rest of the time they usually hang out elsewhere within the cage.
Providing a place for the snake to hide will also make it more comfortable as well as improve feeding response and reduce stress.
There are commercial hide boxes available.... however most breeders improvise by using a nontransparent plastic box with a U shaped entrance, cardboard box...or even a good sized wad of paper for the snake to hide under.
I prefer utilizing the paper for a hide. As it is easily disposed of and replaced, should it become soiled. Snakes love it!

Handling your snake on a weekly basis should be more than sufficient to maintain a mellow attitude.

Harlin Wall

Interestingly enough for us - Last winter when we bred our brongersmai we provided a warm spot of 82 degrees F. Not one gravid female out of 4 ever spent a moment that I could see on that heat. When I would IR temp them, they were always between 72-75 degrees.

This year, I pulled some males to check on them as we were starting to pair them up. The IR temp reading were 70-72 degrees. The hotspot is 78 and even after feeding they never spend time on the heat.

The above cases are animals in cages of 3' and 4'.

All of our sweater box and shoebox animals have the heat set at 78 and due to housing size don't get the opportunity to cool down as much as the caged animals.

No sicklies, and no missed meals. Nice lean machines :O)

BTW - hi Harlin, hope all is well!!!
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Chris & Alliey
Giantkeeper Reptiles Website
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Hello Chris and Alliey!

We are doing great.
Hope you are both doing great too.
I am glad to see your post.

I suspected there would be some considerable variation in the preferred temperature ranges maintained by different keepers.
Your post goes to show that there is certainly more than one way to successfully "skin the cat".

As you know, many people utilize a seasonal temperature variation to stimulate breeding behaviors. It obviously works.

However, we do not use this approach. We prefer another method to stimulate breeding behavior. We simply "cycle" our Bloods by fluctuating the feeding frequency.
Offering more food during one time of the season is enough to trigger hormonal ques that lead to successful reproduction.
(This also works well with Ball Pythons!)

For me it seemed more natural with these tropical dwelling snakes. (not to mention that it is also very easy.)
The temperatures they are experiencing in the wild are fairly stable.
Wet/Dry seasons are experienced, rather than more "temperate-like" warm/cool seasons.

(note: in many temperate dwelling reptile species, a cool down/brumation period is thought to be necessary in order to instigate viable spermatogenisis.)

In the tropical wild setting, the availability of food surges after the wet season. So, we decided to try keeping the temps fairly stable...and rather seasonally manipulating the feeding frequency. It works like a charm.
We have been producing snakes with this method for years.
But, having said that...I know that there are many other methods that will also achieve successful results.

As you know Blood Pythons...and Short-tailed Pythons are remarkably hardy animals that can be maintained fairly easily.
As long as you do not subject them to extended periods of sub-optimal conditions...they will generally thrive in captivity.

I really enjoyed reading your post.
Hope you have a great season.
Stay in touch. I always love hearing form you guys!

Your friend,
Harlin Wall - WALL TO WALL REPTILES!
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