Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi, I posted this on an other forum, but nobody answered, hope somebody can help me here (I can rezise the pics if needed):

Hi,

I have a new adult pair of hondos for about ten days.
When I got them, they told me they where already kept at about 68 degrees (and they were in shed, female did shed, male didn’t yet).
When I got home I found a chick leg in the bag where the male was in (probably regurgitated?). The next day one of the snakes did take a dump (I think, maybe also reguritated). And today I did found vomit (I think) again, you can see the picture below, does this look normal ? (don’t look if you did just eat )

I was wondering if this is normal, and if they had to be kept at normal temperatures for a longer time, to clear the gut (I hope it is clear now).
Because they told me they already started the brumation, I did not give them any extra heat (or food, just water), they are kept now around 63 till 66 degrees.

So can I go on cooling them, if yes at what temperature and for how long and how humid ?
Or do I need to heat them up (and feed) again ?

Below some picture of them, do you guys think they are in good condition to start (continue) the brumation ?

Thanks in advance!

Female

Male

Vomit?

To be safe I'd worm them back up for another two weeks(75F to 85F) just to make sure that male sheds and cleans the gut out. I don’t feed my Hondo's chicks so I don’t know how well feather digest and what its poop looks like so can't help you there. Besides the feathers, the poop looks fairly standard to what I see during brumation. Not sure what you're looking to do with them but if you intend to breed them you don’t have to cool Hondurans if you didn't know that. I fed all mine this past winter(but reduced the light) and they did fine breeding this past spring. Most guys just cool them so they don’t have to spend extra $$$ feeding them for the 3 months. I will end up cooling my this winter because of that. I hope this helps.
Craig

OK, thanks for you advice!The male did shed now.
But I will warm them up again for two weeks then, I think.
So it won't be a problem not to feed them for another two weeks, at normal temps ?

And yes, I'd like to breed them. I've heard it's not necessary, but don't you get better results when cooling them down (better quality of the sperm and maybe better clutches)?? But I also do it to reduce costs. At what temp are you going to cool them down?

Just another question:
How long can they produce good clutches? Someone told me till their last year, but I heard some will stop at 8-10 years.

Thanks

Just worm them up(don’t feed them) for two weeks and you should be good. I have some males that go off feed for 2 to 3 months sometimes so a few extra weeks shouldn't be a problem if they are healthy. Then cool if you like. As fair as cooling them 60 to 68f is fine. I'd say I've seen better results when I don’t cool them(double clutch better and keep weight on). I've had years when I've lost a few in brumation not knowing exactly why…assuming my temp dropped a little too much. I know a few old-timers that have Hondurans which they never really cool (just reduce light) and they have gotten good eggs laid in December and January. 90% of my females bred this year and I didn't cool them.
Craig

they will lay till they die...and they can live over 25 years ....
(yes they can die at any time , just like all things )...

.,....you can keep them "up" as mentioned....if you like....
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........JY

....chicks stink....you found that out...they do not have as much body weight or tissue as rodents...more water....and probably was a frozen chick...so it does go right through them....and smells....this pile has urates in it ,so I'd say it is feces not regurged ......as the other person said...warm them for a week or two to empty them out...then drop them back to 56 to 66 degrees.....too warm and they burn too many calories...too cold and they die....(I got to 40 one year and lost 3 snakes (of like 60?)...underground is around 55 degrees so.....Hondurans I had were always kept at the lower levels...a little cooler than some stuff....but do get it up into upper 70's for a week or two...

good luck....
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........JY

That is one NASTY and very unhealthy looking stool. Every single time I've seen stools like that in my decades of experience it was basically also associated with the snake regurgitating and needed either Flagyl(Metronidazole) and/or Panacur (Fenbendazole).

I would STRONGLY recommend that you go get a fecal floatation done by a competent reptile vet. I also strongly suspect it had serious issues prior to you owning it. I would make damn sure the other was holding down meals and having normal looking feces before contemplating they go into brumation or cooling of any kind that will lower their metabolism and make things worse before you get it treated. I guarantee the vet will find some sort of parasitic activity in that stool slide when it is looked at. It is not very expensive to have done, and the last thing you want to do is have this get worse (which it will) if ignored.

Best of luck with it, and hope the snake(s) get better quickly.

cheers, ~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

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