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What's the lowest temperature considered safe for a snake to have food in their system before it becomes toxic? I'm talking ambient temps.....not talking about hot spots available, just ambient temps.

Like with many things, there is no ONE answer. Then to qualify your question with only ambient heat. It makes it impossible to answer.

I have had snakes feed all thru forced hibernation, 55F approx. They digest small prey items slowly, but completely. Large prey items, cannot be digested and are reguriged.

To ask about "Toxic" would mean, somehow you stop the snake from throwing up. As normally that is what they would do.

As an example, last year I found a hog on 12-31 last day of the year, it was 33F when I found it, the night time temps were mid twenties and it had a large lizard bolus in it. It digested that bolus just fine.

Hydration is the real problem, A dehydrated snake can have real problems, particularly when temps are not sufficient.

Lastly, why would you not have heat available? you know a hot spot. If your not going to support digestion, then don't feed it.

Hopefully no one responded to your question because they would not feed a cold snake with no ability to find heat(alternate heat source).

I hope someone else responds to your question. Best wishes

As you addressed snakes in general its really tough to make a call. Some snakes during hibernation do not have enough bodily energy to regulate digestion and so it stagnates. Other species will remain active and digest in winter. The catch is that while ambient temps are X degrees, the overall thermo-regulation takes more than just ambient temperature. Some surfaces such as rock will heat up and be very warm during winter in sunny days. An example is with Gopher Tortoises, Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnakes have been out here in Florida just above freezing basking on the burrow apron. The ground temperature is really warm in direct exposure, but the air temperature is cold. While they do become active in more moderate temps, its still interesting to actually see.

This is an answer explaining why there is no universal answer for "snakes" and that it depends on the environmental conditions and species.

This post ins't at FR, its at OP for an answer, just accidentally hit respond while reading FR's answer lol.

Your right and I think air temps are sorta misleading, both in nature and in the field. Well they are misleading and its because they are misunderstood, like you brought up.

My assumption was that he was talking about captivity. In captivity, I would think its not a wise thing to do, you know feed a snake that's cold and with no ability to warm up. Also the OP used the word toxic. Which again, is misleading, a healthy(normal) snake would regurgitate as soon it it senses digestion has stopped. To become toxic, it would have to be stuck in a snake and cannot get rid of it. If it cannot rid itself of something toxic, then I am sure there are other issues.

hows the tests going? best wishes

Tests are going okay so far thanks .

Also by toxic I think what he was referring to is various care-sheets/books. Not all, but some, care sheets that I have read for various species of snakes have claimed that some snake species, mainly thinking Eastern Ribbon Snakes and Banded Water Snakes off the top of my head (I've never tried or risked myself though), will not digest food and it will grow bacteria cultures in the stomach. They believe that by the time the snake's body recognizes the threat the bacteria has already spread further in the digestive tract and into the body.

While I have never seen any proof of this, no reptile keeper I know is willing to be the agent for potentially deliberate killing of a snake for such an experiment. Also, based on the amount of effort that would be required to regurgitate the food, if enough energy was available to do that I also believe that digestion would still be able to occur, resulting in little to no bacteria cultures. I believe that the "accounts" may be erring on the safe side based on lizards, which likely wouldn't regurgitate and thus develop issues over hibernation. I myself believe that it won't happen as I believe all snakes have specialized enzymes to kill harmful bacteria that may be found on carrion. Irregardless of my belief, a heat source should always be provided long term. In some occasions a short time without is safe as many snakes do naturally enter dormant periods (i.e. if light burn't out and store was closed for holiday or something).

Yea, as a reptile guy, many types, I find a flaw in these type reports. Many reptiles, like racers, water and gardersnakes, have a higher metabolism and require much higher heat then others, like ratsnakes and kings. hognose seem to be near Coachwhips when at their high end.

I also am not a fan of your dormant period. Snakes regularly summer and winter use lower ranges of metabolism. Its what they are. We commonly see snakes moving, crawling, doing things, at very low temps, high thirties up. What they will not do is expose themselves to danger, when working at cooler temps. That is, if they are not warm or hot enough to use their natural defenses, like crawling quickly to escape, they simple will normally choose to not go out in the open.

Here at my house, the lowest temp we have seen snakes crossing the road(dangerous) is the mid fifties. In the field, we find snakes moving at the temps I mentioned above.

Anyway you will see a lot of this in the future if you look. And it sounds like your looking. I remember in Fla, my best time to find corn and other rat snakes, indigos, milksnakes etc, were in the colder months and particularly after a blue northern. Watersnakes and such, better in the summer. Best wishes

Yeah the dormant period I refereed to is where temps drop below freezing for weeks at a time such as Canadian winters. Here in Northwest Florida and along the gulf coast states as well as western states along the same latitudinal regions I see no reason for snakes to hibernate. They may temporarily retreat below the frost line on cold nights but come up again. I have indeed seen many snakes in winter here in Fla, mostly rattlesnakes and cottonmouths in winter, but other species too, including black racers and coach-whips.

I could see more if I was done with college and able to work around the clock - which I enjoy as I work in the field on restoration and conservation land one county over where the habitat is much better for Floridan snake species. Get all sorts of snakes year round because heavy winter rains (and other seasons too) saturate sand hills which push up snakes that are under ground or in Gopher Tortoise burrows. Its also nice because unlike many areas that are voided of populations by over-collection as well as parks where it is illegal but still done, this land is 100% closed off to the general public which allows all the herps to stay there, un-fettered except for photography by those who work there. Like I said, nice while I'm there and what I see supports all points you have made, but college combined with over-collection in my county as well as extensive farming and housing have really tampered with herp populations.

From the pictures I have seen of areas that you herp in, I think that areas that are more well-kept may also have affect on hibernation patterns too. I have no idea about this though, just speculation as it would take very long term testing in my opinion.

Thanks for the reply, my whole point of my question was, I keep reading about how reptiles in general need a certain amount of heat to be able to digest food. Also if not digested the food will rot in their system. So I was just asking if anyone knew the approximate temp at ambient temps without a heat source is a safe level to keep snakes with them still feeding?

I'm not advocating keeping snakes without a hot spot or anything like that.....I'm just curious if anyone knows like a cutoff temp level that snakes should not have food in their systems?

I could word it like this also, what's the safest temp you can keep snakes with food in them, without a hotspot?

Well I certainly would not consider going below 0 degrees Celsius. While snakes live in areas where this temp and below are frequent, they retreat into caves and into the ground to get below the frost line, where it remains over freezing - 0 degrees Celsius.

I don't think there is too much to worry about as far as food digestion goes. That property revolves around acid based reactions which while require an Ea (Activation Temperature) the pH of the stomach acid covers this.

One thing I did just consider that I haven't seen in any care guide or point made in regards to this topic, the fecal matter that is post-digestion may gain bacterial growths if the snake, being ectothermic, does not have the necessary energy to be able to continue basic organ functions as well as deposit feces at the same time - something that is a must - in most if not all cases - for the latter to occur.

As far as a purely academic question actual food digestion shouldn't be an issue so long as the reptile does not literally freeze and die. The main issue would be the feces where bacteria can and does occasionally develop on the intestinal tract. In regards to your 50ish degrees Fahrenheit question I have seen snakes pass feces without problem in this temperature when I find a basking or hibernating (by accident) one from time to time

However in captivity such situations should be avoided from deliberate application. In the wild snakes know either by learning or instinct to properly regulate their body based on environmental conditions and as such the issue should not arise without accident. Such an example of an accident is if a and the only seasonal hibernation site was destroyed. That has the potential to kill off snakes withing given populations if they can't make due by a different means.

Lizards such as anoles have been known to thermo-regulate in temperatures just above freezing point within inches of icicles. Turtles and Crocodilians would likely either burrow (I have seen numerous Alligator and aquatic turtle digs next to lakes here in Florida). If the option presents, they may seek flowing water. A local creek becomes highly populated with aquatic snakes, turtles, and alligators in winter here. The reason is the water flows at a strong speed making it very difficult for humans to swim upriver - I have to use a rope to toss and pull if I don't have a kayak or canoe. Water bodies such as this, because of their flow and mountainous origins have a relatively constant temperature give or take just a few degrees Fahrenheit. Not to mention aquatic reptiles tend to be more capable of withstanding cooler temperatures. By staying in this water, basking on logs, and digging into mud-flats in the back-waters which heat up quick in the sun, many turtles, crocodilians, and aquatic snakes are able to forgo hibernation in areas such as Florida. Further north in areas like Tennessee, Missouri, Michigan, and Canada to name a few, snakes at least still seek shelter below the frost-line which usually means uphill sites above the water table.

There are several factors to consider:

1. Temperature, current and average temps consistent with the species of snake.
2. The size of the snake.
3. The health of the snake.
4. The size of the food item.
5. The freshness of the food item (some snakes will eat dead/already decaying food items).

Toxicity only becomes a problem to the snake when the food item starts to decay inside the stomach before it can be properly digested. When this starts to happen, the snake will regurge it's food before the decaying food item can kill it. However, regurgitation doesn't always happen and the snake can ultimately die from such decay problems. This has been witnessed many times in the wild usually from huge constrictors that swallowed such large items that were practically impossible to regurge that once decay set in, death was inevitable.

The trick is in trying to understand the components that make up the equation to this problem (health heat typical sized food item = proper digestion):

1. If the snake is healthy and is fed a typically sized prey item for it's size and ideal temperatures are offered, then decay is not an issue as the food item will be digested before decay starts.

2. If the snake is healthy and is fed an overly large prey item but ideal temperatures are offered, depending on how exceedingly large the food item is, it might still be digested within a reasonable amount of time.

3. If the snake is healthy and temperatures are much cooler but a typically sized prey item is offered, then the digestive process can be compromised and regurgitation can be an issue. This of course entirely depends on just how much of a drop in temperature we're talking and the overall health of the snake. At cooler temps, food items should be reduced in size to help offset the problems of decay.

Example, if you have an adult kingsnake that usually eats adult mice but during the winter the temps drop from 90 degrees to 70 degrees, that snake will still be able to eat but might have a problem digesting adult mice. Therefore, offering something smaller like hoppers will keep the snake fed but without increasing the risk of regurgitation.

4. If the snake is unhealthy, then all bets are off. An unhealthy snake can have digestive problems regardless of temperatures but lower temperatures can prove to be more lethal. If the snake is unhealthy simply because of lower temps, then obviously that's an easy problem to solve. Another problem that can cause snakes to become unhealthy and have digestive problems is that of dehydration although I have seen dehydrated snakes eat and digest their food items without any problems, but it's better to get them hydrated and then offer a food item.

Another thing that can be misunderstood is that if a snake is given too large of a prey item, that's it's better to jack up it's temperature to help aid in digestion. While snakes are ectothermic and require external heat to aid in digestion as they have no means of creating their own internal body heat, too much heat applied to an overfed snake can also cause rapid decay of the food item still digesting in the stomach which can also cause regurgitation. Again, this has been witnessed with large constrictors that ate too large of prey items only to have excessive heat decay the food item to the point of causing gases to build up in the snake and cause it to explode.

The key here is to give the snake just the right amount of heat to properly digest. You know, the Goldilocks zone, not too cold, not too hot.

Where I live, it gets significantly colder during the winter and I don't brumate my snakes. Yet, the ambient temps in my snake room during the winter ranges from 70-75, and half of my collection doesn't have nor require anything hotter. I still feed all of my snakes regularly, but probably food items that are a bit smaller than my peers do, and rarely encounter digestive problems. And even those times when a particular animal does regurge, I follow the standard regurgitation protocols, try to correct the problem of what that particular animal regured (usually by offering it a smaller food item) and everything goes back to normal.

The bottom line is, there is no easy answer for your question. All you can do as a keeper is to pay close attention to the behavior/function of your snakes and apply common sense (whatever that means in today's world).
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