Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I'm getting my first Softshell (a spiny) and I just want to clear up a few things for me. First of all, would a 10 gallon cage be OK for a little while if its a male? Also, what filter should I use that won't get broken from the sand? That brings me to, what sand should I use and what else should I put in his cage? I'm new at this, obviously, and I just would like to know how you all set up your hatchling's cages. Oh, and why are they called SPINY softshells anyway???????

J.L.

Ten gallon would be OK at least temporarily, for a softshell up to about 3". If it spends a lot of time swimming around out of the sand, judge your future space requirements accordingly. I have used Calcisand for smaller softshells (and smaller tanks - it is quite expensive) as an extra source of calcium if accidentally ingested. Otherwise ,a fine aquarium sand would be OK. Start with a water level low enough that the turtle can get its nose to the surface without uncovering. In a larger tank, you may have a bit of a weight and cleaning problem with a large amonunt of sand. DO NOT use an undergravel filter, in which waste is sucked down into the sand and broken down by aerobic bacteria BUT...if you lose power or proper flow to your filter for awhile, you have a food-rich environment that is quickly colonized by anaerobic bacteria, including the species that cause botulism. This happened to me twice many years ago before I figured out what was happening. The formerly active turtles showed a sudden onset of the classic paralysis associated with this condition. They were alive, but unable to move or respire. They are called spiny softshells because of an area of tubercules at the very front edge of the carapace, but these aren't very obvious from a distance.

Thank you so much, that is the best answer i've heard so far! What should I do about heating and lighting? Any pics of your set ups? And...do the spines hurt? LOL

J.L.

The "spines" are very tiny projections and are hardly even noticeable. They are only at the extereme front of the carapace and if you get your hand in this area, you have much bigger things to worry about. Remember, they have long necks and can reach around far back on their shell. My own set ups are very simple - usually large plastic storage containers, with or even without sand for softshells, which I keep isolated from the other turtles becase of potential shell damage from claws, etc. I keep my many turtles in a heated room. Unless you keep your house very warm, you may want to invest in a submersible heater. The water in most turtle tanks is too shallow for a vertical heater. The best brand is probably Ebo-Jaeger, but they are moderately expensive. There are thinner brands as well for smaller tanks, or you could even use an under-tank heateng pad, although these are usually not adjustable. Softshells don't bask much, so an incandescent bulb with reflector is not really important. A simple flourescent fixture to fit the tank would be OK. I strongly suggest an inexpensive timer to turn the light on and off - it saves much aggravation when you are busy. One of the wide spectrum specialty reptile bulbs with UVB radiation is desireable but not essential. You should provide most of their Vitamin D in the diet. If you want to put in a basking area, it should be very smooth. A very smooth rock is OK and won't damage the shell, or you can fabricate a platform out of plastic kitchen containers etc. with a ramp of vinyl stair tread or indoor/outdoor rubber-backed carpet (such as a door mat)affixed for climbing out. As mentioned, they rarely bask.

Wow, thanks....that helps a bunch!!!

J.L.