Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello all,
I have not visited this board since it was created a couple years ago, and I see not too much has gone on since lol. But I do have a question. I saw in an older post that a person mentioned some folks were having success captive breeding Z. quadrilineatus. I currently have 2 groups of quads-a pair that I just cant seem to get anything out of (although that might be due to the Z. karsteni they live with) and a 2.2 group (I think) that has layed repeatedly in the past, but every clutch has been infertile. I was considering switching around some of the boys, but they have been together so long at this point I am hesitant to shake things up.
So, before I get long winded, I am curious if anyone can point me in the direction of people or articles describing breeding success with this species, or any Zonosaur species for that matter, as I have long been trying to get my hands on a nice Z. maximus group.
Thank you,
Paul

Sorry in advance, but my advice won't be worth much. I did some checking on a breeding database and found only two records of captive breeding of this species. One was Philly Zoo, and all 8 hatchlings died. The other breeding was two successful hatches from a single clutch, private individual - no status available. Also, among zoos that report to the International Species Information System [ISIS], there is no indication that the very small handful of zoos with Zonosaurus spp. have had any success with breeding. You're pretty much on your own with the species. What little I know indicates they are difficult to breed and there is little if any difference between the sexes. I would suggest that maybe Gerrhosaurus incubating techiniques might be worth a try. Ingo Kober, who's been known to post here on occasion as had some success with at least one species of Gerrhosaurus. He indicated in an email communication to me that they needed very high ambient humidity early on in the incubation, tapering off to very little humidity during the last part of the incubation. Good luck. If you do have success eventually, don't hestitate to share any information on this forum.
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Matt Campbell
Animal Keeper, Small Mammal/Reptile House
Lincoln Park Zoo Chicago, Illinois

Assistant Curator
Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, Illinois

I thought of one more thing. You might try shaking things up a bit by switching males around. It might be just what's needed to stimulate the females and some pairings in certain species of lizards just seem to work better than others.
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Matt Campbell
Animal Keeper, Small Mammal/Reptile House
Lincoln Park Zoo Chicago, Illinois

Assistant Curator
Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, Illinois

Thanks Matt...No records of captive breedings at the Bronx zoo? I know they have a group there...
I believe I still have the advice Ingo gave about incubating the nigrolineatus eggs..plus I have some articles about zonosaurs which include breeding advice (Rogner, Bartlett)..I just havent had any luck since I moved everyone around..Maybe I will try changing up the pairings...the pair that I have the most hope in have just within the past few months been moved into a much larger environment, so I am hoping for the best....
Have you seen any Zonosaurs being imported lately? All I have been seeing are "long term captive adults" from questionable sources, no young ones.
Thanks.
Paul

I don't know if they still have them, but Aquarium Stuffers had some listed on their site within the last month. I think they were Z. quatorlineatus - called Madagascan Jeweled Skinks if memory serves. Not too expensive either. I was going to see about getting some added onto an order of Plateds I was getting from them but the order shipped before I could reply to my email and have them add on the Zonosaurs. They seem to get lots of Plateds and Zonosaurs though so I'm sure they'll have more later in the year. I was really satisfied with my first transaction with them. They even went so far as to take some pictures of cloacal areas of the Plateds for me to try to sex them and narrow down the species. Alas the photos weren't quite good enough. I ended up getting three G. nigrolineatus, and one G. flavivulgaris. I may or may not have a viable sex ratio with the nigrolineatus. Anyway, their website is:
www.aquariumstuffers.com
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Matt Campbell
Animal Keeper, Small Mammal/Reptile House
Lincoln Park Zoo Chicago, Illinois

Assistant Curator
Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, Illinois

Thanks Matt,
Anytime I have seen "Madagascan jeweled skinks" on importers lists they have been Tracheloptychus..cool little lizards, but not what I am after. What I would really like to get is a group of Z. maximus, or possibly even a small group of Z. ornatus or some more Z. karsteni to go with my lone adult. But coming across any of those has gotten very difficult. The worst part of it is I passed on a trio of ornatus at a show a couple years ago, as I was loosing interest in reptiles in general. I kick myself now thinking back on it.
At any rate, thank you.

Sucessfull incubation is achieved at 82f to 86f in "Hovabator" with no constants. Thet Hovabators are set in the basement or dark/cool bathroom (off the floor, on 2x2s)using a Radio Shack Digital Thermometer with the Probe placed through the top hope/red cap placed gently back in thus holding probe in place. Probe is away from wafer and just above egg boxes. The heated air temperature is set at 84f, this allows temperature range. Constants in temperature in any of the Zonosaurus species has resulted in negative results. Egg media is Vermiculite/Percolite/Play Sand & Bed-a-Beast mix.
When setting up egg incubation media: place it in a Cheese Cloth,twist it closed, then in a glass bowl pour in "bottled H2O" , lift it out and twist/squeeze until no more water comes out. Media is then placed in rubbermaid or sterile food containers (unused)at a depth of 1/2". Eggs are place in the media exactly as female has laid them, be sure there is enough air space between the eggs and lid. To setup your egg container 1) drill to place air exchange holes on all 4 side (not lid) 2) use exacto knife to remove any burrs 3) run it the dishwasher to sterilze 4) use Latex gloves to handle containers & eggs to control contamination.

Set temperature on the "Hovabator" 2 weeks before she is expected to drop and record readings/check ranges. Like Chameleon developing eggs need range not constants, but not dramatic (82f is safest low 86f is safest high). Hatching takes 60 to 75 days. I pour bottled H2O into bottom of "Hovabator" to keep humidity good but don't forget to check egg media weekly until the last two weeks. Golden Rule: better alittle dry & add H2O than too much H2O = death of an egg. When adding H2O add just enough to keep MOIST, you can also see this through egg container bottom by lifting it above your head.

Mold happens but does not mean egg is dead. Use a new/clean soft/small modle range paint brush to gently brush mold off the eggs.

Candling eggs will show fertility with yolk vein.

Group and pair bonds are not to be changed! You must also be aware that keeping other speices in the same cages cause the female stress as even smaller species will eat eggs. All plated lizards are territorial, size of cage for 1.3 should be 6o" L x 24" deep x 18" to 24" high, bigger is always better. Dual UVB ZooMed/Exo Terra 8.0/Lumichrome 1XX are good combinations-these go on and off with our sunlight schedule. Basking spot Light should be place over Cork bark/12" x 12" Tile, never use heat tape or such devices with this species. Air temps: ambient 75f - 85f, basking area 92f -95f (note the tile will give them belly heat). Use 3" to 4" of "Aspen Bedding" as substrate, this creates the perfect tunnling maze. Use a Sterilite/Rubbermaid box for a "Humidity box" which is setup as follows: "ESU Forest Floor" or "Bed-a-Beast" @ 1" - 2" deep (with entrance hole on side of box accordingly) then a nice layer of Sphangus Moss which is misted daily. Females will use this box to lay eggs also.

Special note on Males* if kept to HOT sperm counts will be very low. If stacking cages check ground temps. The use of Mineral I and Nekton Rep MS works very well, use of "T-Rex Solar drops" with gravid females aids in replacement Calcuim in the Skeletal System. Since you mentioned you feel infertile eggs: there may NOT be breeding and female(s) are just cycling eggs (as Leopard Gecko females do). When your male(s) is in top breeding condition and season, his femoral pores will have long waxy secretions, horns used to rub against territorial items such as rocks, bark, hides to leave not only his scent but a UV trail attracting females for breeding. If memory serves me right under a BLB blacklight (not a poster blacklight)these trails can be seen. Imported WC Zs are always treated with Panacur & Flagyl, quarentined for 6 months together, and take up to 3 yrs max to acclimate from Madagascar time zone to ours. It is the Barometric Pressures during Winter that trigger hormonal breeding prep. NO cooling/brumation/hibernation is necessary. Lighting changes are in accord with our natural daylight time table. Crickets, waxworms, superworms as treats only, dog/catfood mixed with finely chopped vegs, sweet fruits from Spring through October. Only occasionally are speciems offered for sale through Import/Export and distributed to venders/petshops and they are WC; all Captive Bred & Born (Intensionally) are not offered up to date as it is a rarity.

I hope this answers most of your questions. I have 15 yrs experience with Zonosaurus & Gerrhosaurus species. Natural captive enviornments have always had negative results for me.