Original post by Mikesmonitors — 2026-03-19 00:36:58 GMT

Kingsnake.com resurected!
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Monitor Brain Podcast 4LIFE!
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Original post by s36637 — 2019-09-02 01:35:28 GMT

Hello, I have an asian water monitor and he started closing his left eye recently and I am not sure if there may be something wrong. He will sometimes keep the left eye closed but the right eye open. The only change that has happened is he broke his heat lamp and there was glass that came down. I cleaned it up and did not see anything visible wrong with his eye but am worried that something is either wrong or he may have got a cut. If anyone has any experience with this I would appreciate some advice. He still has a ferocious appetite and is not lethargic at all. He has a 110gallon pool that he swims in daily and is in there a few times a day which I would assume flushed anything out and his basking temp is 110-115. I linked some photos and a video. Thanks in advance.

http://s7.photobucket.com/user/S36637/library/Ragnar
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSUDgwNCPyU&feature=youtu.be

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Original post by Aquamentus_11 — 2019-05-24 18:12:30 GMT

Does anyone breed or know of anyone who breeds this species in the States? I can't find them anywhere outside Australia.

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Original post by twhite1991 — 2019-01-21 15:02:34 GMT

I know that you arent supposed to keep boscs/savannahs in glass but for now this is all i have to work with and she seems to love it. She only basks for a few minutes at a time and then walks around and chases shadows for a while(idk what shes doing) but she has some room to dig and make burrows and she has a hide plus two morr she made out of the water dish and the log. She has most of her moisture and heat trapped in. Every week i add water to her substrate and mix it up. She gets cycles of uvb light 3 times a week also. Shes a little lazy sometimes but shes fairly active. She likes to nap in her light after she eats. Im going to put a pic in of her enclosure. Let me know the pros and cons of my setup please. Remember it is small and it is temporary so size i am aware is not adequate. Standby for pictures

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Original post by twhite1991 — 2019-01-21 15:00:57 GMT

I know that you arent supposed to keep them in glass but for now this is all i have to work with and she seems to love it. She only basks for a few minutes at a time and then walks around and chases shadows for a while(idk what shes doing) but she has some room to dig and make burrows and she has a hide plus two morr she made out of the water dish and the log. She has most of her moisture and heat trapped in. Every week i add water to her substrate and mix it up. She gets cycles of uvb light 3 times a week also. Shes a little lazy sometimes but shes fairly active. She likes to nap in her light after she eats. Im going to put a pic in of her enclosure. Let me know the pros and cons of my setup please. Remember it is small and it is temporary so size i am aware is not adequate.

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Original post by thecapebandits — 2019-01-18 08:16:04 GMT

Dear All
I am new here and am keeping a pair of cape banded white throats.
M-SVL-34".
F-SVL-28".

Prior 'experience': I previously kept a single male black throat monitor for 11 years before he perished (I'm assuming, old age). He was wild caught with a broken tail, and measured 71.5" SVL. I did my best to provide him with optimal conditions based on available internet information but I now hope to "do better" for my newly acquired cape bandeds.

Some questions below - would appreciate your kind guidance and inputs:

1. Nesting

Their current nest/home is a 48"L x 18"H x 18"B box. Box is filled partially with substrate with a small 10" by 18" opening. I currently use a mixture of cocopeat and garden soil as substrate. Substrate is kept moist but not wet.

Question - Is this current housing optimal? Also, is there an optimal substrate to use?

Note: This is just their "burrow", not their entire compound. They roam in a 4.5m x 2.2m secured area which receives full tropical sun and rain. There is an additional 3X halogen lamp basking spot for rainy days too.

2. Maximum Size

I could not find specific information relation to the max SVL of cape bandeds on the internet. But I did read from a old post on this forum that they tend to max out at 3.5ft. Is this true? What's the likely max SVL for males and females?

3. Laying eggs

Mating occurred recently (1 week ago) and female has been getting more and more bloated. I plan to build a nest box this weekend. Any suggestions how deep the box needs to be, etc? Again, very little information on this on the internet.

Thank you very much in advanced.

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Original post by pjohnson — 2018-11-03 22:54:14 GMT

I have lots of experience taking care of snakes and lizards that don't require much humidity. But this was when I spent the majority of my life living in Denver, Colorado where the average humidity was 40-56% humidity. I now live out in the country in Danielsville, Georgia. It's a lot more humid here. The humidity where I live now in Georgia tends to range 52-85% humidity.

I'm in the process of designing a walk-in enclosure for a young CBB and socialized Varanus Salvator Salvator from N.E.R.D.. Due to time and budgeting I won't begin construction of this enclosure until January and I don't plan on getting the lizard I want until spring or summer. I'm designing a walk-in enclosure that will be used for the animal's entire life time(and due to how big they get I plan on only caring for one water monitor). This enclosure will be designed to have two separate configurations. The first configuration will contain enough space for the monitor lizard until it passes 3 1/2 feet, and the second configuration will be an extention to the enclosure that will transform it from a very large terrarium, into a walk in enclosure.

When I finally get the water monitor, this will be the first time me taking care of a reptile that isn't naturally from a dry enviorment(that I'm aware of). I googled Indonesia's average humidity levels where I'm told where these lizards are originally from and it looks like Indonesia's average humidity levels are 75-85% humidity.

Due to online research I already know to have the flooring of my enclosure to have a lot of dirt, and I want it to be bioactive, also mix in stuff that will help maintain humidity, but I'm ignorant about how else I'm supposed to create an enviornment that ranges 75-85% humidity all the time. I've heard that some folks will keep a spray bottle of water handy and occasionally spray an enclosure. I've also heard of small fog machines attached to enclosures to create those humidity levels.

So here's my questions:

What are ya'all's thoughts and opinions on what specific levels of humidity I need to create/maintain for an asian water monitor?

What are ya'alls advice on how to go about creating and maintaining the level of humidity that a water monitor needs?

Also, since I live in a more naturally humid enviorment(Georgia) compaired to where I used to live(Colorado), will I even need to spray or fog to get my enclosure to be humid enough for the lizard, or is it a matter of "I don't need to spray or fog as much" vs if I still lived in Colorado?

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Original post by MichaelSmith — 2018-05-07 11:37:45 GMT

Hi,

I seem to be having some issues running ArchiCAD 12 with 2 monitors.
I have a MacBook Pro (2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 4 GB RAM, GeForce 8600M 256MB vram).
When I am hard at work at my desk, I have the system connected to 2 monitors to enlarge my virtual workspace. I place my Project Navigator and other tool palettes on the second monitor. Works great.
When I'm working elsewhere, away from my desk, or I otherwise do not have access to that second monitor, ArchiCAD does not appear to be smart enough to realize there's only 1 screen, and my palettes are all gone. Toggling them on and off doesn't bring them up. Restarting ArchiCAD doesn't help. (Typically, ArchiCAD isn't running when I unplug the external monitor.) The palettes are obviously still on that 2nd monitor, despite the fact that its no longer connected.
This also happens with the pop-up (for dragging, etc) as well as the tracker.
New windows (views and layouts) will reposition themselves, although the aspect ratio is per the monitor they were last on.
Any ideas? Glitch in the program, or is there a way to reset to default positions for all the palettes?

Any help will be apprecited.

I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.

References:
https://archicad-talk.graphisoft.com/viewtopic.php?t=29488
Motion graphics animation agency

Thank you.

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Original post by aaaa2852 — 2017-07-28 20:06:46 GMT

Hi! I got a baby Savannah monitor these days and I am trying to build trust with him.

I usually feed him with tongs.

I allure him to get on my hand (I never touch his food with my hands) and let him have it.

Here is the thing. He usually tries to hit my hand with his claws like digging the ground, push his head between my fingers and bites me.

He is still a baby, so I just let him do whatever he wants. When that happens, I just wait for him to let me go.

It seems that he can’t distinguish between his foods and my hands.. though.. ((I never touch his food with my hands)

Is it normal?

or are there any tips to teach him the lesson ?

I don’t know what I really should do for him..

I hope I delivered my messages very clearly.. since I am not a native speaker.

In my country, most of reptiles keepers tend to tame their pets with force and that is the last thing I’d do, so I would be really appreciated ur help and advices..

Thank you for reading!

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Original post by sarahjane85 — 2017-06-28 02:12:40 GMT

I would appreciate help from anyone who has experience with older monitors (12 ). My 12 year old, partially blind female (cataracts) has puked up her last three meals.
The sequence:
6 weeks ago = 2 medium sized rats (puked while I was on vacation)
2 weeks later when I returned home = 4 rat pups/fuzzies (digested/pooped)
1 week later (to get some substantial nutrition in her) = 1 medium size rat (puked 2 days later)
2 days ago (because she wasn't keeping the medium size rats down) = 8 rat pups/fuzzies (puked the next day)

I realize that she is old and yes she has slowed down on food since she was around 9 years of age, but she has never puked before and I am worried about her receiving proper nutrition as she ages.
She is otherwise healthy and active, despite her failing eyesight, although I can tell that she is somewhat distressed from puking so much.
My question is for those who have dealt with this type situation..... what is the most nutritious foods I can try (apart from the obvious chicken breast meat or eggs)? I would still like to give her a varied diet, if possible at this stage, but I am hesitant to give her her regular intake diet (Hissers, waxworms (as a treat), Superworms, crickets, Hornworms, rats) because puking is not fun for any living being and it's clear that she is no longer able to digest the most nutritious staple I offer, rats. I haven't even tried her on chicken breast yet to see if she'll even accept it, but she is still very interested in food and wanting to eat.
Is there ANY more easily digestible foods that you have tried? Has anyone tried a blended slurry of chicken breast (with skin, for fat?), yogurt (calcium), various insects (roughage/fiber)? I know, I'm thinking ahead.... I'll await responses before I offer anything.
Also, no husbandry parameters have changed in the last 10 years other than increasing the size of her enclosure and she is not obese. She has actually been slowly losing weight over the last year as what occurs with most aging reptiles (I currently have and have had several in the 15-18 year range). Note also that she was severely obese when I took her in at 2 years of age (kept in a 20 gallon tank, fed canned dogfood), but with the proper nutrition, husbandry, and exercise, she streamlined to a reasonable weight over the period of a year, and I'm wondering if this could have had lasting effects on her organs as she developed and grew.
Thank you ~

Sarah.

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Original post by s4sainz — 2017-04-19 17:12:55 GMT

Varanus Tristis Tristis A.K.A. Black Headed Monitor

One of my favorite dwarf monitors are these guys.

I keep Both VTO (Varanus Tristis Orientalis) and VTT (Varanus Tristis Tristis)

These are one of the most under rated varanids out there.

Here's a few pictures of some of my breeders, NFS...

VTT
FEMALE

MALE

VTO MALE

Varnus Tristis Orientalis VS Varnus Tristis Tristis

Male VTO Next to a Male VTT

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Original post by PickyourPoison — 2017-04-18 14:49:54 GMT

Hey, Kingsnake visitors, I now have the permit required to own and receive the Butaan, now comes the hard part, finding someone with the permit to ship them. Do any of you have this? or perhaps know someone who does? If so can you direct me to them?

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Original post by DylanHess512 — 2016-12-15 18:47:19 GMT

Hey guys, I know this isn't a classified post, I don't have the money, but I am looking to trade my Emerald for an Asian Water Monitor.
He is two years old and reaching four feet.
If you have any questions or if you are serious about trading please email me at dylanlola512@aol.com, or you can call me at 3215278839

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Original post by Artimusclyde — 2016-09-19 23:42:01 GMT

I have a 2 foot long black throat in a holding cage till I finish it's 8 by 8
The tank is small but the ambient is 85 soil is 80 and the basking spot is 130
I had it hotter but he would never use it I dropped the temp to 130 but he just hangs next to the light never getting above 95 him self (laser temp gun)
His humidity is around 80% I have about a week till his new cage is done but he has gone from 5 mice a day to 1 mouse a day any thoughts?

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Original post by inked4fun — 2016-07-28 00:48:35 GMT

Hello,

I have been looking into the difference between Ornate vs. plain Nile monitor. I thought I had a plain Nile but, when I went to a pet store three people all agreed it was an Ornate. It has a black/ blue-ish tongue. It looks like there are 7 to 9 rows between the front and back limbs. I apologize but, I can't figure out how to post the pictures on here from my iphone or desktop. If anyone would care to comment or send an email that I can send the pics to that would be great. Or if there is an easy way to post pics here I would love to know.

Thanks

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Original post by Radium_Angel — 2016-07-23 00:42:34 GMT

I have a ~3 year old male Roughneck Monitor. After bathing in the tub for a bit, he will walk around with his tail in a "C" shape, but vertically.
I've never seen this behaviour in any monitor lizard before. It will last maybe 3 minutes, then return to his normal shape (straight behind him) as he continues to walk around.

He only seems to do this after a bath.

Any ideas?

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Original post by HuffnBluff — 2016-01-05 07:49:36 GMT

Is my monitor old enough to be sexed?
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Original post by arvin_k — 2015-12-12 05:33:27 GMT

Hey guys sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong place but it's my first time on a forum took me a min to figure out how to post lol. But I just got my lil guy yesterday yes about a foot or so seems healthy nice n think fat tail clear eyes but I just wanted to get some advice from more experienced people. Before I start since I saw almost in every post out there I do know what I'm getting into have a spare room nobody has used for the past 4 years for when he gets bigger & have no problem spending a few bills a month feeding him or her.

What I really want to know is yesterday when I picked him up at the post office he was scary crazy hissing whipping tried to bite I mean a routhless lil guy lol when I got him in his temporary enclosure he was tail whipping when I passed by him I mean he really hated me ! But still he ate 2 1.5 gram pinkies and some raw turkey mixed with calcium & multi vitamins figured he's nice n healthy cuz I always hear a healthy monitor is usually a nasty one , I kept messing with his cage to get kinda use to me n when he saw me adding food n water he seemed to not mind me as much. All night he was trying to escape from any angel he could think of.

Today I'm a lil worried tho , he did like a complex 180 he's not really moving as much running around hissing or anything I hand fed him 4 or 5 large dubia roaches, 4 super worms, 1 pinky ( not sure exact size but lil bigger then yesterday's) & some ground turkey everything was dusted or mixed with vitamins & calcium except the pinky. His temp is 94 basking is 136 f highest point ambient being 80-85F he did go to the bathroom yesterday & again today (today in his water dish. Any advice or help would be really appreciated !!

And also when feeding him raw or frozen/thawed mice should I just leave it in his enclosure or remove it like I've been doing when he is done eating and if so how long is it safe to stay.
Oh yea he did whip me once when I pet him after he rested his head on my fingers so that kinda made me feel a lil Better lol

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Original post by wesbrown — 2015-11-12 01:49:47 GMT

Hi everyone I have a water monitor he or she is my pride and joy she has been eating small frozen thawed rats and just recently picked up 75 frozen chicks at a reptile show thinking it would be them like crazy this is not the case is there any tricks I can try to switch him or her over?

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Original post by 119n — 2015-11-11 09:50:18 GMT

If u intersting and in LA.contact with this email：2353315300@qq.com，lets talk about them.

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