Kingsnake.com - Herpforum - Uromastyx

georgio/peter? with Boulder?

urojade — 2017-02-05T20:05:30+00:00

Original post by urojade — 2017-02-05 20:05:30 GMT

This is a long shot but I wondered if user georgio is still in touch with anyone.
I have a beardy that I bought from him as a baby but I think he was better known around here for his Uro Boulder the Egyptian.

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WANTED: C.B. Ornate's

Synn — 2017-01-10T05:10:47+00:00

Original post by Synn — 2017-01-10 05:10:47 GMT

I see a lot of wild caughts, but where are the breeders who are line breeding extra colorful Ornate's? I'd love to get in touch and get a couple, and help breed beautiful brightly colored specimens!

Feel free to email me at imadison2000@comcast.net

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Panting?

shibutterfli — 2016-10-05T19:47:46+00:00

Original post by shibutterfli — 2016-10-05 19:47:46 GMT

I just recently adopted a mali uromasyx, Winslow, he is approx. 20 years old. He’s never been around other lizards, I think he’s a he. They told me to just feed him frozen green beans. I did a little research and started to vary his diet with bananas and kale. He’s been eating everyday. They told me he hadn’t eaten in a month. I changed his substrate with fresh because they had this pink stuff that turned his claws pink. I didn’t think that is healthy for him. So I got the natural desert substrates. Today I came in and he is in his usual spot but is like panting with his mouth open. I never seen him do this. I was concerned so I stroked his back to check him. He stopped. Is this a normal behavior? I moved his tank by the window yesterday and had the heat light on… Do you think he got to hot? I've never owned a lizard before and he's very chillax. Even when I changed his tank.
Thanks for any input.
Julz

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C&C Cage?

hadleyw — 2017-02-06T02:52:06+00:00

Original post by hadleyw — 2016-08-17 04:03:41 GMT

Hello!

I am looking to move my Mali Uromastyx to a larger tank. I was looking at 120 gallon tanks.

I was wondering if instead of that I could convert one of my C&C cages into a Uro enclosure. I couldn’t attach an image so you would have to look it up.

It is 6x3. It has coroplast on the bottom and grid walls. It would be off of the ground. The cage does not have a top. I could make one and be able to clamp it shut or hand the lights on a stand. Would it be okay to have completely open sides as long as he has the right lighting?

I may be able to put tiles on the bottom. The coroplast probably isn’t the best unless I can seal the edges. It doesn’t have any holes though. Would it be okay to have the sand directly on that or should I tile it? I could also replace the coroplast with a wood base.

At this point the cage would probably be a big hassle but I just wanted to ask in case.

Thank you!

Reply by UroJade — 2017-02-06 02:52:06 GMT

I use those for my guinea pigs and i would think the grid holes are to big and would allow an escape or injury.
Besides that it would not hold heat.

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Getting variety into diet

Sn4k3grl — 2016-04-08T19:14:29+00:00

Original post by Sn4k3grl — 2016-04-08 19:14:29 GMT

I have had Aziz, a saharan, for a bit over a year. He loves his spring mix lettuce, but he won't eat much else. I know they are seasonal eaters, and he does tend to eat more lentils in the winter. I have tried introducing other uro approved foods, but he just pulls the lettuce out from under them. I have tried shredding and chopping, frozen/thawed, rehydrated, fresh. He won't even touch fruits. My vet said his bloodwork is good. I just would like to give him a more well rounded diet and more variety in life. Any suggestions would be great, thanks.

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reintroducing uros

mhoff — 2016-02-12T22:49:42+00:00

Original post by mhoff — 2016-02-12 22:49:42 GMT

I have two male uros and they have been housed together for over 8 years and have not shown aggression. Recently one had a medical emergency and had to have surgery. They have been separated for 3 weeks and I was given the ok by the vet to reintroduce them. I just reintroduced them once so far and it did not go well. The one who had surgery was very aggressive and the "play date" lasted a couple of minutes and I had to return them to their separate enclosures. Any advice on this process or how long it might take? Or will they never get along again?

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I Found My Uro Laying On His Back?!

Ur06 — 2014-07-31T06:41:03+00:00

Original post by Ur06 — 2014-07-31 06:41:03 GMT

Hello,

I brought home a young uromastyx last night. He's been in his new home with me for about 24 hours. He basked today all day, walked around, but hasn't eaten. And tonight I checked on him, it's around 2:15 a.m. and he's lying on his back in his cave that he slept in last night. I removed the cave and he didn't move. He was moving his tows and legs though.

I'm super worried though! I have the temps on the hot side around 100 today and on the cool 85. At night it dropped down to 75. I am buying a better heat emmitter tomorrow.

At the pet store, they had been feeding him crickets and veggies. But he ate a lot of crickets, so I'm worried that will mess him up? But I'm not sure.

Please help.

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looking for young red nigerian

ajavelina — 2014-05-10T16:31:40+00:00

Original post by ajavelina — 2014-05-03 22:36:56 GMT

Im in the market for a young red nigerian. Lots of color.
I saw one at a local pet store. The first time ive seen one bright orange like that. It was beautiful and I was trying to convince my wife to let me get him. My daughter and I would go visit him several times over the last few weeks hold him and pet him. Today we went to get him and someone beat me to it. Any help would be great. Thank you

Reply by el_toro — 2014-05-10 16:31:40 GMT

You're definitely better off not going with a pet store. A breeder is a better bet for a nice, healthy critter. If I were shopping for a new lizard, my first choice would be Lindsay Pike of Urotopia, but there are others as well. The website was way out of date last time I looked (ages ago), but you can just contact him to see if he has what you're looking for.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
0.2 Saharan Uros (Arthur and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.0 Ornate Uro (Scuttlebutt)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
0.1 Housecat (Jenny)

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Setups

TingTing2 — 2013-12-18T13:26:25+00:00

Original post by TingTing2 — 2013-12-18 13:26:25 GMT

I'm trying to get some ideas on how to redo my Mali Uro's setup. Anybody willing to post pictures of their Uro's habitat?

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Saharan coloring

eaglestriker15 — 2013-12-02T18:33:48+00:00

Original post by eaglestriker15 — 2013-11-28 03:26:55 GMT

Hi, I am a new uromastyx owner, just got it today actually. From what the store has told me, my guy is at least 5 months old. He is a male and is dark with some yellow spots. Is there any way to determine what his coloring will be. I hope he is red but I'm not too worried if he is yellow.

Reply by el_toro — 2013-12-02 18:33:48 GMT

If he's got yellow already, he'll be yellow.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.0 Ornate Uro (Scuttlebutt)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

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substrate debate

tobes101 — 2013-11-21T17:33:06+00:00

Original post by tobes101 — 2013-11-21 02:31:07 GMT

Howdy,

So I understand that the issue of substrate is not entirely black and white in the uro world. I have done a lot of reading and many seem to agree that either millet or washed play sand can be good options. I think the breeder I got him (or her) from had them on large pellets as hatchlings.

I have a young ornate uromastyx and started him out on paper towels and flat rock slabs since many other options seemed dangerous when he was only about 1-2 months old (almost made the walnut shell mistake when I was new to uros). I'm wondering when and what do upgrade him to though.

I would go the millet route, but he LOVES to eat it (I throw in a few organic millet seeds a couple times a week and he will stop whatever he is doing and bolt for them), so I'm afraid he would go crazy with it (at least for a bit). He seems to ignore anything that looks like sand though, besides the occasional "tongue test" when exploring. Even if I grind up lentils, etc. to put by the greens, he won't notice it if it isn't moving and looks like sand.

So, maybe the washed play sand is a good option? At what age is it safest to introduce them to more than paper towels and rock slabs as substrate?

Thanks for any advice.

Reply by el_toro — 2013-11-21 17:33:06 GMT

Don't move him to a particulate substrate until he's at least six inches in length. Make sure he eats very well and is well hydrated when you make the switch - if he does eat some, it's more likely to pass safely.

I've used both playsand and millet in the past. Sand is fine (if they don't eat it) but it's heavy and hard to keep clean. Keep food bowls on rock slabs to keep sand out as much as possible. Make sure any rocks are placed on the floor of the cage, not on top of the sand because they WILL dig underneath and get crushed. Natural beach sand is best. I had very good luck with pool filter sand from the pool supply store. I still use it in their dig boxes.

I've mostly used millet and that's worked out fine for me, though it's not a very natural substrate for them. If they like to eat it, though, then you're better off with sand, I think (my opinion only).

Currently, they're all on kraft paper. My millet got a bug infestation that's been a real hassle - another downside. But I used it for...what, ten years before getting bugs?
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.0 Ornate Uro (Scuttlebutt)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

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What kind of Uro do I have?

k9felines — 2013-10-31T17:38:13+00:00

Original post by k9felines — 2013-10-15 14:39:40 GMT

Mail? Banded? Banded Mali? Or other...

My new Uromastyx. We've had him for a couple of weeks. He is male. Thoughts?
This guy is incredible, I don't have much info on him. He had to have been handled ALOT...he is puppy dog tame and will actually seek you out. Super friendly and outgoing...I couldn't be happier! This is my second reptile to own, stepping up from our bearded dragon.

Reply by el_toro — 2013-10-31 17:38:13 GMT

Looks like a Mali to me, but I don't know enough about bandeds to tell you for sure one way or the other.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.0 Ornate Uro (Scuttlebutt)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

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Uromastyx Questions

E55bulldog — 2014-01-23T17:40:01+00:00

Original post by E55bulldog — 2013-09-26 18:13:01 GMT

Good afternoon all.
I am new to the forum but not to reptiles. Recently my Mali Uro passed away after 13 years. I was thinking about getting a bearded dragon but do not want to deal with crickets again. I am now liking the Egyptian Uro’s due to their size. I really want a larger reptile that is easy to care for, like my Mali was.

What do you know recommend? Are the Egyptians a good choice? They do lack color but also are known to have good temperament. Any info would be great.

Where is the best place to get one. Any breeders you all recommend?

Thank you,

Reply by pierrino — 2014-01-23 17:40:01 GMT

deerfield knows his stuff

Reply by khamers — 2013-09-30 08:15:57 GMT

Quote:I did keep a bearded dragon for a short time. However, he had behavioral issues and I could not tame him. end of Quote.

hahahahaha This really made me laugh

Reply by blazblu82 — 2013-09-29 05:02:13 GMT

I have never kept a Uro. It was something I considered getting recently. I did keep a bearded dragon for a short time. However, he had behavioral issues and I could not tame him.

Have you considered a Bluetongue skink? The Northerns are the largest breed of the species. They have slower metabolisms and require very little to eat. Even their diet is easy. According to bluetongueskinks.net, many BTS owners use canned dog food as the staple protein. Their diet sheet indicates no more than 2 tablespoons of food a couple times a week for adults; and 1 to 2 teaspoons daily for juvies. Plus, their setup is really not much different that a beardie (go figure... their both from Australia, lol!)

I ordered my first Northern BTS yesterday and am awaiting its' arrival Tuesday.

Good luck with what you decide.

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Researching Uro's for my next pet.

blazblu82 — 2013-09-26T16:48:50+00:00

Original post by blazblu82 — 2013-09-25 18:08:59 GMT

Greetings,

I am researching Uro's to add as my next pet. I currently have an adult blood red corn snake occupying a 55 gal glass tank with front and top access points which I want to use for the Uro. Re-housing the snake is no big deal. My quest lies in finding the proper bedding for the Uro.

I have read Deer Farms care sheet (likely place I will buy my first Uro) and I am led to believe that bird millet/seed works best. Now here is my first question, which bird seed/millet can I use? The pet stores carry a large variety of seed. Do I want to use the seed meant for small birds (IE: cockatiels and parakeets)?

Aside from the bedding, I intend to not use a UVB bulb as Deer Farms has indicated that adding D3 powder to the diet produces the same results as those Uro's reared under a UVB bulb. So, along with the Uro purchase, I plan to buy DF's complete care package which will get met going in providing good care for the Uro.

I haven't decided completely as to which variety of Uro I will buy. The decision will weigh heavily on what's available at DF.

Sorry for the long post; but I appreciate any help given. Thanks!

Reply by el_toro — 2013-09-26 16:48:50 GMT

If you want to use seed as your substrate, use pure white millet (or red millet is probably fine, too). The point of millet is to make it not particularly appealing for them to eat, but have it also not be a problem if they DO eat some. Mixed seeds are more appealing and you don't want them deliberately eating what they've been pooping and walking around in. Mixed seeds also tend to have things that can harm their innards - things too large or too sharp for them to safely swallow.

Do not skip out on the UVB. Dietary D3 supplementation can work with carnivorous reptiles that get much of their D3 through their natural diet. Uros are vegetarian and need to get their D3 through synthesis in the skin via exposure to quality UVB. Do some reading about what products are good quality, too. Other than the sun itself (which is free, of course), good UVB doesn't come cheaply. It needs to be monitored and replaced often. I used to recommend Mega Ray - their products are incredible, but their customer service is ass. Now I would recommend doing a LOT of reading on http://www.uvguide.co.uk/ before making a choice.

As for which type, make sure to go with the smallest (adult size) uro you can, because a 55 gallon isn't very big for a uro. They need MUCH more space than a snake.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.0 Ornate Uro (Scuttlebutt)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

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Uro Breeders?

snakeguy190 — 2013-09-22T12:41:19+00:00

Original post by snakeguy190 — 2013-09-21 16:26:20 GMT

I currently have one ornate uro and looking at getting another uro of some kind. I would really like to get a CB but would deal with ranched if I can't get anything else. Doug at deer farms has nothing now, I'm on his waiting list for a ranched mali. I have tried contacting urotopia and Lindsay hasn't gotten back to me. Is there any one else to try. Thanks for your help.

Reply by troyuroranch — 2013-09-22 12:41:19 GMT

I have a few second generation yearling Ornates for sale and farmed baby’s.

Image

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Uro Heating Question

Rebecky518 — 2013-11-17T00:19:32+00:00

Original post by Rebecky518 — 2013-09-19 15:07:53 GMT

I have an 8yr old Uro. Seems to be a happy guy until i moved from our home in a temperate climate to a more northern locale. Basically it is friggin cold. I have purchased 2 ceramic heat emitters and they got the inside temp up to a nice warm 115 and he was happy. Until one stop working. i unscrewed the bulb from it's ceramic dome fixture and there were lil chunks of stuff were it looked like it had burned the connection between bulb and fixture. My fixture is rated 250 watt and i was using a 150 watt Che. I thought maybe was a fluke so i got my guy another bulb and fixture and the same thing has happened. They are on the half of the cage that is never opened so they are not being jostled and are on a timed power strip. If anyone has any ideas as to what is happening i'd like to hear ideas. Or if anyone has a better idea as to how to heat my 75gal tank in this freezing climate please, for the love of lizards, let me know. Thanks.

Reply by CarlKoch — 2013-11-17 00:19:32 GMT

I would go with a wooden enclosure...it will hold heat much better.
-----
Carl

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morrocan vs mali

oid — 2013-09-14T00:29:18+00:00

Original post by oid — 2013-09-14 00:29:18 GMT

hello. How can one tell the difference between a yellow morrocan and a mali? Thanks!

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Macfadyeni hatching

khamers — 2013-08-15T17:10:06+00:00

Original post by khamers — 2013-08-15 06:27:44 GMT

Hi guys,

This is the second time I got a few eggs from my macfad pair. After succesfully hatching them in 2011 they did not do anything in 2012 so I'm pretty happy that they are back on track in 2013.....

the father:

First 2 hatching.....

gr. Kamiel

Reply by el_toro — 2013-08-15 17:10:06 GMT

Congratulations! They're adorable.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.0 Ornate Uro (Scuttlebutt)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

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New to Uros, some help please

zimbabwepegasus — 2013-05-28T17:37:30+00:00

Original post by zimbabwepegasus — 2013-05-19 18:03:03 GMT

Hi all,

I need some Uro help/advice and all that jazz.
My dad got my mom a consolation Uro two years ago after her panther chameleon died (obviously my father is not particularly savvy). While the Uro was well-cared for, he/she wasn't socialized. My mom is reptile aware and checked out Deer Fern's info, etc.
Five days ago, they moved and decided to give me their Uro.
I have snakes and had beardies for years and years, but am new to Uros.
First things first, this Uro is very small for his age. He's about 5 inches, which at 2, I'm pretty sure is too small. Bone structure looks good, so I'm not worried about MBD or anything.

The Info:
20long (I know)

Lights on at 7:00am, food offered around 7:30am, lights off at 7:30pm.

Basking temp 115, cool side 76 (taken with a PE1 temp gun)

I think my parents predominantly fed Earthbound spring green mix, so far I've had him on curly endive and dandelion greens. Calc powder every other day, Miner-all once a week.

On millet

I took out his hide 2 days ago because he didn't go out to bask at all. Like at all. Ever.
I do have some logs in there, so he can do a little burrowing action.

Here are my questions:
1. At about 5 inches, if the temps are holding properly, how quickly do I need to worry about getting a larger enclosure?

2. What to do about this basking issue? I know that Uros need their hiding spots, but if mine NEVER comes out of his...what are my options?

3. He hates me. I don't blame him. I've been letting him just adjust and now have started to just leave my hand in the cage for 5-10 minutes, but he hulas and clearly wants me gone. The game plan is to start taking him out for short periods of time soon, but I really don't want to stress him.
Coming from a beardie background, how social can I actually expect a Uro to get? I know nothing's quite like a beardie.

4. Do these guys do better on a Reptisun or an MVB? The expiration on the current one is about a month and I wanna know if I should be looking at T-Rex or a reptisun 10.0 and basking light. Given his inertia, I like the idea of a UVB that extends across the enclosure.

5. How quickly are these guys supposed to grow and about how much do they actually eat? In short, exactly how behind is my little guy? I've read some places that feeding occasional super worms can improve health/growth. How much do we actually know about this idea?

6. Is gender identification similar to beardies? Can I just look for femoral pores?

Last but not least, I am at least trying to attach a pic. Can anyone identify what type of Uro I've got on my hands.

Any other advice or help is greatly appreciated.

- Kerry

Reply by BFrederick — 2013-05-28 17:37:30 GMT

All the care requirements given to you by the previous poster are excellent.
As far as species, my educated guess is that it is a Mali. If you want to make your own guess, check out the species pages on deer fern farms. There are lots of pictures of hatchlings/juvenilies of each species you can compare yours to. Many do look similar until they are considerably older.

Reply by Paradon — 2013-05-25 21:54:40 GMT

The temperature can drop a little at night to about 75-80 degree and you should let it drop. Letting them cool down a bit is as important as keeping them hot.

Reply by Paradon — 2013-05-25 21:52:14 GMT

I have my Mali for 5 years and never once feed him bugs. His bones are very strong and he feel very heavy. They do fine of veggies and other stuff like eltoro mention as long as you supplement him with calcium and multivitamins... Dont over do on multivitamins as it can be toxic. dusting the food with multivitamin once or twice a week is enough. With the calcium I do it about 3 times week and I usually use the calcium with vitamin D3 added cause they live indoor, unless you have an outdoor enclosure but that is not recommend cause they need a very hot cage to thrive like eltoro mention. I too keep the hot side about 100 degree and under light it's usually 120 degree or highter; the cool end is about 85-90 degree.

Reply by el_toro — 2013-05-20 17:36:19 GMT

On to temps!

Basking surface temp should be 120F or even a little higher. At least half of the cage's ambient temps should be around 100F. About a third of the cage should be around 85F. Overhead heat is preferred to undertank heating, and definitely no hot rocks (as you probably know). The trick is that these temps are very hard to maintain safely in a cage as small as 20L. That's why the 40 breeder is the minimum recommended, even for such a small uro.

Food!

Spring mix is ok - endive, escarole, and dandelions are better. But you definitely want to add in more things. Vary the greens a little - add in some collards and kale sometimes or nappa cabbage or radicchio. Avoid chard, spinach, and cabbage.

Shred and mix in some vegetables, too: green beans, parsnip, and hard and soft squashes like butternut, acorn, zucchini, and yellow squash. They LOVE green peas, which can be an excellent treat - don't overdo them, though. Avoid cruciferous veggies like broccoli, cauliflower, and brussels sprouts.

Once he's eating his greens/veggies regularly, you can add in dry foods, too. Dried grasses like orchard or timothy hay are great - I dust it in a coffee grinder and mix it into shredded squash. They love dry lentils, seeds (pumpkin/flax/sunflower, etc), wheat or rye berries, crushed beans, etc. For such a small guy, grind it in that same coffee grinder. Adults generally have no trouble crunching through very hard lentils and things, but most beans are still too large. NO KIDNEY BEANS - they're toxic raw.

Added treats/goodies include fresh bee pollen granules (in the refrigerated section of health food store) and edible flowers like nasturtiums, violas, dandelion flowers, pansies, and squash blossoms. I also sprinkle on some quality juvie iguana food, finch pellets, and/or mixed seeds for color and texture.

Calcium and vitamin powders are a good idea - just don't overuse them. I like Minerall and Herptivite. Get appropriate ones for the level of UVB you're using (i.e. does it contain D3 or not?).

Good luck with him. I'm sure he'll do fine once he's settled in.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

Reply by el_toro — 2013-05-20 17:17:36 GMT

1. Uros grow slowly - it's probably not TOO small for its age, but proper nutrition will help it. The trick is, you need a larger enclosure NOW. 20L is way too small. Minimum size would be 36" by 18", but you're much better off getting a 4' x 2' or larger immediately since you'll have to get one that big soon enough anyway. Temps will be addressed later - yours aren't right.

2. Give him back his hide immediately - several if you can (low and tight). He's severely stressed from the move and now is even more stressed because he has nowhere to feel safe. It's not uncommon for a uro to hide without coming out to eat or bask for up to two weeks. He'll come out when he's ready.

3. You're making it worse by trying to socialize him. They aren't social. Don't take him out, don't hold him. He will come out when he's ready, and he may eventually get used to you messing with things in his cage. He may not EVER be OK with you handling him. Eventually you can try to sweet talk him with treats, but don't try to force the issue.

4. You'll want to do some big-time reading on UVB before making any decisions. I use almost exclusively Mega-Rays in very large enclosures. Basking distance is a huge factor in your choice. If you have a fluorescent, it must be within 12" or so of his basking spot. I hear the high output T5 Arcadias are quite nice in terms of quality of UVB and longevity.

5. Uros are slow growers, especially if compared to something like a beardie. Don't worry. Feed him properly (more info on food later), give him space and proper temps and he'll be fine. Don't feed him bugs of any kind - they're much better off as strict vegetarians. Bugs can lead to health problems, and even worse, encourage them to STOP eating their greens.

6. Sexing can be very difficult. I'm not even going to try telling you what species you have, let alone what sex it is. Most of them require similar environments. And sex really doesn't matter at all.

To be continued in next post...
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

Reply by zimbabwepegasus — 2013-05-19 18:28:47 GMT

Let's try that picture thing again!
" alt="Image">
-----
1.1.0 beardies
1.0.0 bloodred corn
0.1.0 striped anery corn
0.1.0 the cutest lil BRB ever- courtesy of Dave!
0.1.0 leopard gecko
0.1.0 golden gecko
0.2.0 mourning geckos
1.1.0 cats

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Can anyone sex these Uros

shottz — 2014-02-01T07:06:37+00:00

Original post by shottz — 2013-05-16 04:50:17 GMT

I am trying to see if these are in fact a M/F pair. The one on the right looks to be the male, left female. Anyone have some input?

Reply by kenthesnakeguy — 2014-02-01 07:06:37 GMT

It looks like two males. Some females can mimic males however. Need preanal pore shots to be sure. Cheers.
Ken

Reply by shottz — 2013-05-16 04:57:44 GMT

sorry pic didn't load

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