Original post by bslugger551 — 2020-12-11 17:06:46 GMT
These are a few of the splotched Sinaloan milks that I produced this year.
Original post by sballard — 2026-04-14 03:32:00 GMT
Looking for any hypo-e pumpkin Sinaloan milks that do not have any Cosala or albino genetics in them. Just the pure pumpkin Sinaloans that used to be prevalent back around 2006-2017. Hopefully someone still has some !!
Thanks,
Scott
Original post by AaronBayer — 2026-04-02 19:23:35 GMT
What do you have locking up right now or are you hoping to get locked up this year?
I'm planning to have a little bit of a down year just to keep it easy.
Limon/San Antonio Zoo Black Milks
Providencia Black Milks
South American Milks
Andean Milks
Honduran Milks (real ones) (with a new WC male)
Amur Rats
Original post by Sunherp — 2025-12-18 19:46:07 GMT
Hello, all! I see the likes of Aaron, Scott, and Joe posting, so I figure I better announce my presence, too. I hope you're all well.
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_______________________
-Cole
Reply by AaronBayer — 2025-12-29 15:21:42 GMT
Maybe enough folks will peek in that the forum can get rocking again.
Reply by sballard — 2025-12-18 21:31:02 GMT
Hey buddy !! Hope you're surviving the Arctic up there !!
Thanks,
Scott
Original post by exposito — 2025-11-16 02:49:12 GMT
I’m glad the information on this page will be preserved.
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Thanks!
Joe Exposito
Reply by AaronBayer — 2025-11-17 14:49:25 GMT
Same. There's a lot of important stuff if you go back several years.
Original post by AaronBayer — 2025-11-05 16:17:46 GMT
Now that KS has been saved by a new owner. I figured I'd make a post letting others know that they aren't alone. A few of us still hop on here from time to time.
Maybe if enough people are on here, we can go back to using KS a little more and get a break from the constant bombardment of nonsense found on FB.
Reply by AaronBayer — 2025-11-12 15:01:55 GMT
There are two articles I'd be interested in writing. The first would be how different species (and even ssp.) can and arguably should be kept very differently. This ties in with the whole racks vs. tanks vs. plastic enclosures debate that rages regularly. I'm adamant that some species can be kept in all of the above without even the slightest concern, but that there are other species that absolutely shouldn't be kept in one or more of the above options. Quick example, a small mountain king or milk in a 41qt tub with deep substrate, adequate heating, snug humid hide and large clean water bowl is living the dream. While a coachwhip in anything smaller than a room sized enclosure is downright cruel. I recently did a series of very simple experiments spanning a few months with 3 milks snakes, 3 russian rats, 1 ball python, and 2 argentine boas. It was focused on heat source preference and response to UVB light. It became crystal clear that each group has different preferences towards heat and light and husbandry should be tweaked accordingly. (Spoiler, milks don't give a crap about UVB)
The second would probably be a deep dive on the Ecuadoran/Andean/Black milksnakes. While I love all milks, that's probably the group I'm most spun up on. It's also the group the average reptile keeper knows very little about. People think "they get big" and leave it at that. There's a lot going on with them if you take the time to read, obsesively analyze iNat and bombard guys like Steve Hammack, Scott Ballard, and Cole Grover with questions. I'm of the personal opinion that they should be their own species or at least considered different from both polyzona to the north and from each other. So, for example, L. m. micropholis/andesiana/gaigeae in my mind rather than L. polyzona (micropholis).
Reply by KingsnakeJon — 2025-11-08 20:25:34 GMT
Thank you both for being here, and all you've done for the hobby!
If you guys could write an article on anything you wanted for the hobby to see, what would it be about?
Reply by sballard — 2025-11-07 02:05:10 GMT
Glad to see you here, Aaron !!
Thanks,
Scott
Original post by Ameron — 2025-01-30 12:43:17 GMT
After posting, I was in contact with Scott Ballard who shared much helpful information about Milks in general and locale-specific species traits.
Thanks, Scott! You were so helpful.
]]>Original post by Ameron — 2025-01-17 16:19:41 GMT
In my last post, I mentioned that I have a new Stuart’s milk snake. The Florida dealer who sold it stated that their adults were field collected from Nicaragua. They have been in business for over 30 years and I have no reason to doubt them - but I still wondered if a Guatemalan specimen had found itself into a prior shipment of snakes from Nicaraguan.
Stuart’s milksnakes usually have the inverted “V” shape for the white line that runs across their noses.
Mine, however, has a straight line and the inverted “V” is replaced with a vertical, black line separating white spaces. That straight, white line is more common with many Guatemalan specimens so I did more research. (Yes, I know that individuals can vary in appearance, for every subspecies & region.)
I further researched Milksnake species nearby to Nicaragua. I like to see how color & markings differs form each geographic region. I’m also aware of the new nomenclature and the move to update the prior 24 subspecies to the currently suggested 7 subspecies.
I researched for Central American” specimens:
Lampropeltis Triangulum Hondurensis (these alone seem to have the Tangerine phase)
Lampropeltis Triangulum Polyzona (these seem to be bi-colored & dark as adults)
Lampropeltis Triangulum Abnorma
Lampropeltis Triangulum Oligozona
Lampropeltis Triangulum Stuarti
Online photos show that milk snakes from Yucatan and the Atlantic coast seem to have orange or gold bands, rather than red bands. In Pacific coastal & low mountain regions, however, most milk snakes seem to have similar colors & traits, tending to be more dark red bands rather than golden or orange.
I’d like to hear from experienced importers or keepers who specifically have experience with Abnorma, Oligozona & Stuarti specimens. Are species or regional traits generally consistent, or have you seen a wide variety of banding & markings even among the same species or region?
1.0 Lampropeltis triangulum stuarti
1.0 Elaphe climacophora (Kunashir Island blue)
1.0 Lampropeltis getula california (San Diego Striped)
1.0 Lampropeltis getula nigrita
1.0 Cuora flavomarginata
1.0 Rhinoclemmys pulcherrima pulcherrima
Original post by Ameron — 2025-01-07 15:24:05 GMT
I’m a long-time forum member (never did Facebook) but I have not posted since 2022.
In the past, I mostly focused on Kingsnakes, although I had my Boa/Python phase.
My interest in snakes has been mostly for North American species that I brumate in winter.
Recently, I had a bout of Snake Fever and got interested in a local Craig’s List post for an adult Sinaloan.
When I got no reply from the person who posted, I began an online search and found field-collected adult Stuarts reportedly from Nicaragua from a well known dealer in Deerfield Park, FL.
I got an adult male and was really impressed with the girth, colors & quality.
In our first handling session, he crawled under my shirt and spent the better part of an hour exploring a little but mostly resting to warm himself next to my skin. At one point, he allowed me to rub his belly as he let his tail dangle out of my right shirt sleeve.
When it came time to put him back into his terrarium, he slowly crawled out of my left shirt sleeve into his setup as I gently caressed him. He had responded like a captive-bred Corn Snake – not like a typical Milksnake that was field collected and new to my home. (He recently was flown from Florida to Spokane, then on by UPS truck 2.5 hours to my new home in northern Idaho.)
I’m hoping that I truly do have a locale-specific Stuart’s with no cross breeding.
GerryG, DougM or others, please share your experiences with Stuart’s and whether you’ve found anything unique about their behavior or care.
1.0 Lampropeltis triangulum stuarti
1.0 Elaphe climacophora (Kunashir Island blue)
1.0 Lampropeltis getula california (San Diego Striped)
1.0 Lampropeltis getula nigrita
1.0 Cuora flavomarginata
1.0 Rhinoclemmys pulcherrima pulcherrima
Original post by highley1980 — 2024-06-03 15:17:12 GMT
Hello, I had totally given up on my tricolor female laying a clutch this year and she did.
I found these eggs she lid and I think they were only there for about 24 hours. Some of the eggs are dimpled. In your opinion will they plump back out after rehydrating in the incubator?
Any help would be appreciated!I tried to attach the image from my iPhone with zero success. No idea how to create an image url from my iPhone.
To describe them one is totally normal. Rest have small dimples or dents. If someone can help explain to me how to share the image I will.
Reply by jeffb — 2024-06-04 00:44:30 GMT
The eggs should be fine and will fill back out if kept on a moist medium such as vermiculite.
Original post by bslugger551 — 2020-12-11 17:06:46 GMT
These are a few of the splotched Sinaloan milks that I produced this year.
Original post by bslugger551 — 2020-10-09 20:21:56 GMT
Here are a few milk snakes that I produced this year. Splotched and Bullseye Sinaloan milks.
Reply by bslugger551 — 2020-10-09 20:23:02 GMT
Forgot to include the splotched picture.
Original post by darbellah — 2020-07-25 03:59:57 GMT
I have an Argentinian milk snake who is about 3 or 4 years old. I have always lived in air-conditioned apartments, but due to losing my job (bc the pandemic), I have had to move to a small studio apartment with no AC. It's a second-story apartment, and because heat rises, it gets pretty hot -- especially during the day.
My snake's terrarium ends up being approximately 86*F on the cool side, and 122*F on the hot side. I'm using an under-tank heating pad. I'm worried he's going to get WAY too hot.
I use Zoo Med aspen bedding that he prefers to burrow into, as well as two hides on either side of the terrarium, and a smallish pyrex dish as a water bowl.
Is it better for me to just unplug his heat pad during the day and have an even temperature of about 86*F and then just plug it in at night? Is there a way to cool one side of the terrarium?
Reply by markg — 2021-01-12 00:28:10 GMT
I have not checked this forum in too long.
Of course you remove the heat pad, what do you think? This post must be a troll, but I answer anyway.
To cool the cool side, put the cage on the floor, and put a piece of granite on the cage floor. They sell a granite slab for chinchillas and small animals (I think Kaytee is the brand but not sure). That helps alot. Granite stays cooler than the air.
Even an ice pack may be necessary on one side. If the snake isn't dead already. 122 deg, geez.
Original post by Irishfran — 2020-05-27 12:45:11 GMT
Hi guys we have our first snake, he's a 10 month old Honduran tangerine phase called CJ. Great snake, very docile and eating well, very handleable. We have him just under 2 months now he's in a small eco terra plastic Viv which I'm.gkimg to soon change to a two foot glass Viv. I live in Ireland so it's not exactly really warm here although the weather is mild now about 20c or 70f day times. The Viv is normally around 26-27 so about 80f on the warm side and as low as 20 or about 70 on the cool side. So I think for the climate we love in all is good.
CJ seems happy and healthy but recently we seem seem to slightly lower humidity, it's normally around 50% in the Viv according to an analog exo terra combined humidity and temp indicator I have in the viv but recently it went down to as low as 30% humidity. I noticed CJ seemed to be drinking a little more, not a huge amount but a little more so input in a small humidity box with sphagnum moss in it and since then he's been in there even after feeding. It's temp seems to be around 70f. He also has spent a lot of time in his smaller hide on the cold side and when I take him out he seems really cold. Is everything ok?I thought he'd gravitate to the warmer side which he did until I put in his second hide or humidity box. Oh he also doesn't appear to be in shed his scales seem a little duller but I'm not sure if I'm imagining that but his eyes look as they always have. I'm probably worried about nothing but I've no personal experience to use as the norm. Any feedback guys?
Original post by ajcur17 — 2020-01-30 17:08:55 GMT
We recently adopted a 3yr old milk snake who was fairly regularly handled. Very docile and eats really well. (He ate when we got him home since it was feeding day). But everytime I handle him for any amount of time he bites me and chews. He never gives any warning signs of hissing, striking, rattling his tail, musking, pooping, coiling. He doesnt do anything before he bites and chews. I have just been trying to pick him up once a day in the evenings to 1. Get him used to my scent and 2. Just give him a once over to make sure he feels and looks alright in his new environment. The last two times he has bitten me he does a little twitch with the front half of his body, not involuntarily, it seems deliberate and then he either looks around a little more and then bites or he just goes in and bites and gives a little chew with it. If anyone has experienced this or has any thoughts I would love to know because this is my first snake and i want him to be comfortable with us. Thanks
Reply by markg — 2020-04-06 19:37:27 GMT
Note that with milksnakes and kingsnakes - there is no guarantee of never receiving a bite. Some individuals, bloodlines and localities are more flighty than others. Also, some can bite as a feed response. Is the snake hungry? In Spring they can typically want to eat alot, then taper down to Summer. It could be that your snake is simply hungry.
Don't fall for those "feed once per week" caresheet guidelines. Feed when they are hungry but be mindful of their body weight, etc. In time you will be better able to read the snake's behavior.
Lastly, milksnakes as a whole tend to not like to be held. There are a few species that are quite tractable, but most are not comfortable with it. Keep handling to a minimum - you can do it, just do not overdo the time in any handling session.
Original post by KieranSnake — 2020-01-19 01:27:24 GMT
In the summer we re-homed a family friend’s milksnake, about 8years old. Up until now she’s eaten regularly and is a very chilled snake. She was due to eat 2 weeks ago and didn’t, she then shed a couple of days later but since shows no interest in eating.
I’m aware snakes may not eat if unhappy but we’re lost as to what’s changed.
Also read on another forum a suggestion that she could be ready to hibernate, is this possible? She still seems as active as before when we handle her.
Thank you for any help in advance,
K
]]>Original post by kedjkd — 2020-01-06 18:50:29 GMT
I am new to this site and fairly new to owning a snake. I was gifted as a surprise by my wife, what i believe to be a Honduran Milk snake. She bought it for me from a local big chain pet store. They only had it in the store for 6 hours before she bought it. They just told her it as a milk snake and didn't give her much more info on it.
I've had it since 11/16 and I am having a hard time getting it to feed. I've been trying to feed it previously frozen pinkies that I have warmed up, it shows absolutely no interest in them at all and actively avoids them when I hold it in the feeding cage with tongs. It doesn't even flick its tongue at it. I am starting to worry because I don't know when the last time it has fed.
Also recently it colors have gotten "cloudy" like it is getting ready to shed however the eyes have yet to cloud over.do the eyes cloud over last or is my snake unhealthy?
I am hoping this forum can shed some light on what might be going on and what I can do to keep my snake healthy and maybe tell me if it is in fact a Honduran .
Reply by kedjkd — 2020-01-07 20:16:25 GMT
https://imgur.com/a/EOShE2I
Original post by JJJ — 2019-10-01 20:36:17 GMT
Hi...complete noob here. I apologize if I’m asking readily available information, but this is my first time keeping this species and I want to get it right. I’ve already searched the forums and have found some conflicting information. At first I thought general colubrid warm side temps of 85-90F were ok until I found quite a few posts mentioning that in general milks (excluding the obviously mountain species who absolutely like it cooler, like black milks) like it a little cooler like anywhere from 75-80F. I have two 40g tanks stacked on a rack with a single heat cable running to both tanks and run on a thermostat. The top tank is logging warm side temps from about 84-89F and the bottom tank is 78-83F barely up to 84-85F range for brief periods. There was a miscommunication with the seller and the pair of milks shipped a few days earlier than expected and are here now before I could get this issue sorted out. The female in the warmer top tank has been observed only on the cool side and the male in the lower tank has been mostly on the warm side until yesterday.
I have a way to set each tank on its own heat source now and am wondering if the current temps are adequate or should I separate the heat sources to dial in a more specific temp for each cage. It seems to me the top is running too warm and the bottom too cool...what temperatures, ideally, should I shoot for on the warm side for this species L. annulata (Mexican Milk)?
I have two Mexican black kings (nigrita) who are thriving with a hot side of around 85-87F, but don’t want to generalize as it seems possible the annulata want it cooler. Again I apologize for the beginner question and thank you in advance for your help!
Reply by markg — 2020-04-15 23:32:44 GMT
I know it is many months since your post, but..
It is best to offer a warm spot 78-84 deg F if the snake has a meal in it. For a colubrid like a Mexican milksnake that is. Yes, many colubrids will digest at lower temps, but it is best to be safe.
I had some hatchling montane kings and some baby rosyboas many years ago. I had fed them one day, and a few hours later power went out in the neighborhood, and the room slowly cooled to about 68 deg and stayed there for the next 8 hours. No problem for the montane snakes, they did fine. But the rosies all regurgitated by morning. So it does depend on the species kept.
BTW the little rosies recovered from that incident and went on to be healthy and happy.
Reply by JJJ — 2019-10-08 17:16:40 GMT
So after reading my original post I can see how it was a little silly...I guess basically I was asking what are the lowest temps which can still support these snakes eating and maintaining a healthy metabolism. I wasn’t sure the high 70’s were appropriate to avoid rotting food in the gut. I’ve since found a thread mentioning that kings will still eat down into the low 70’s and supporting evidence from some breeders who will still feed year round with some reduced temperatures in the winter. I friend of mine has also told me her milk still readily eats in the winter when her home temps are high 60’s-low 70’s. So problem solved!
I still ended up putting each on their own individual heat source just because I didn’t like the lack of control being all on the same cable. They’re running around 85 hot side now. I’m feeling a lot better about it and the milks seem happy.
Original post by DavesterII — 2019-01-28 04:33:58 GMT
My favorite reptile....
Reply by DavesterII — 2019-01-29 08:18:36 GMT
Here it is...
Reply by DavesterII — 2019-01-28 04:51:33 GMT
Sorry guys I can’t post it
Original post by VigorStu — 2018-10-23 05:51:18 GMT
Does anyone out there have PURE Vivid Reptiles (Timothy Gebhard) Line of Hondurans? Or, can you point me in the right direction? Thanks- Stu
]]>Original post by bslugger551 — 2018-08-24 20:11:53 GMT
Can someone tell me the difference between the 2 hypos? The one on the left is darker and has black bands, the one one the right is brighter and has grayish bands. Can hypos vary this much in coloring?
Reply by mrtew — 2018-09-25 12:24:06 GMT
I've only had mine for a couple months but he looks like both those at different times. I think maybe it's just a matter of whether he's getting ready to shed his skin that affects the brightness and dullness of the colors and the black.
Reply by RegiusCo — 2018-08-31 21:33:07 GMT
You basically have 3 different shades of Hypo banding, the dark band can vary anywhere from Black (old school Hypo), Purple (Ultralight Hypo) and Silver (Extreme Hypo) and anything in between, most Extreme Hypos sold are quality Ultralight Hypo, a True Extreme Hypo is uncommon and command a hefty price tag.
You have an old school hypo on the left and an Ultralight Hypo on the right.
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www.regiusco.com
