I hope to be breeding F3 snakes this season. As Chris can attest, wc adults almost always break your heart! They're famous for cruising along fabulously then crashing in a remarkably short period of time. They are extremely succeptible to UR infections.



All of my hatchlings fed best when split brained pinky mice/fuzzies were put UP in the leaves/branches of fake plants. Items left on the floor of the cage were ignored. Over time they'll eat anywhere but this was a key to getting hatchlings started that I lucked into.



I house my adults together year-round in 48"x 24"x 24" cages lined w/melamine. I have wooden Cocatiel nest boxes situated 10" from the top (where the heat source is) and another one 1/2 way down. Lots of grapewood and fake plants w/water bowls mounted to the sides of the cages at 2 different elevations. Automatic mister comes on for 3 minutes at 9:00AM and again at 2:00PM. Humidity peaks at 78% (I live in Vegas so humidity is a constant battle lol). Temps peak at 85F and drop to 78F at night. I'll drop this to 82F down to 75F when I begin to cycle my Chondros and ETBs as they're all in the same room.



A good sign they're breeding is that the cage will look like a battle has been fought! I've never witnessed copulation but have seen the disarray courtship causes - scattered plants, tipped/empty water bowls, etc. When gravid, each egg is easily seen individually.



They stress easily, my philosophy w/all my herps is the less you mess w/them the better. I NEVER hold any of my snakes unless its absolutely mandatory. Make sure the cage is heavily "planted" w/fake plants and a few hides.



Good luck,



Bill

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