Bonnie obviously you missed my point about dehydration.



Ceramic heat emitters do one thing well, kill reptiles.

In your cage the walls may be covered with condensation because your spraying, your bottom can be wet as a swamp, but the ambient air dry as hell. This space in mid air is where our lizards live, we cant see how dry this air is, and if you never took accurate measurements you will never know, and consequently lose lizards.



Now I am telling you what you need to know, no ifs or buts, just strait forward facts of herpetoculture.



Low wattage ceramic heats as much as your oven, theirs no reptiles in the world who can benefit from such a device, doesn’t matter how you use it, its useless.



I posted about why I use 25w bulbs, I explained why I prefer using a few 25w then a single 60w, its about heat dispersion and avoiding hot spots, hot spots dehydrate the atmosphere, it takes away the ambient air humidity, when you think your lizards are in a well hydrated cage, they are actually breathing dry desert air and slowly suffering chronic dehydration, they struggle between drinking to replenish and losing body fluids.



Years ago I was explaining this to varanids keepers, they called me saying they where losing baby monitors, when ask how was there set-ups? Same as your Steeve, I followed your advise to the letter, hold on I am coming! When I get there the first thing I noticed was those darn 60w bulbs, why are you using 60w bulbs? Well this room is a little on the cool side, so I need to compensate. It doesn’t work that way, if your room is low, raise the rooms temps not your cages wattage, its your animals that pays the price.



Photos showing a low wattage ceramic and a 25w bulb, don’t assume your temps are right, make sure they are.

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