Gerry,



Whether brumation is "necessary" depends on both you and the snakes. Here are some thoughts:

- Many sub-adult and adult temperate traingulum automatically shut down in late summer or early fall. It's a natural process which probably protects them from getting caught with a full gut in an early cold snap (like we both know can happen at northern latitudes!). If the snakes shut down on their own, they really need to be cooled down or they lose condition.



- Breeding is the second factor here. If you want them to breed, they really need to be cooled down (unlike the tropical, Latin American forms). Both sexes seem to need a cold and dark rest period to stimulate the hormones that spur gametogenesis (making sperm and ovulating eggs). Animals which haven't been cooled long enough or cold enough seem to have fertility issues.



Brumation temperatures can be tricky. You want the animals to be cool enough, but not TOO cold. I use a combination of mini-refrigerators and a crawl space that underlies a portion of my house. The crawl space stays below 60 but above 40 degrees (pretty much what I consider the ideal and safe range) all winter. I'm not sure if the temperature fluctuation (certainly doesn't cover that whole spectrum in one week) is helpful or harmful, but I haven't had any problems with it. The dorm fridges are easy to keep at a constant temperature, but there isn't a ton of space in them. The milks typically go in the crawl space, while the Rubber Boas and zonata go in the fridge.



A reduced light cycle is probably important, too, but I keep them dark all winter, so I've never test out HOW reduced a light cycle is necessary. My thoughts are that the snakes (temperate milks) are going to spend the cold months deep underground, and often under several feet of snow. They aren't going to see any daylight.



Hope this helps!



Lampropeltis triangulum - Weld co., CO

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-Cole

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