I like to put the food directly or offset from the heat lamp because that is where the iguana will be spending most of its time. The heat plays a major factor in Ctenosaura when it comes to feeding. It is a fine line that you will need to adjust on just how hot the animal needs to be and that depends on the iguana’s progress. If it is too hot and the animal is stressed, the heat intensifies the metabolism of the iguana and also causes dehydration and an opportunity for parasites to take over. If he is too cold he will not eat and will become “depressed.” I do not like to feed mealworms frequently especially in small lizards that may be stressed because mealworms have a lot of cartilage that has caused blockages in some of my lizards in the past. I would feed ¾” crickets or wax worms which contain less cartilage. I have also noticed that even when the food dries up that they will eat it especially dried up hibiscus flowers and although it may not contain moisture or the maximum nutrient content found in fresh food, it may be a prelude to eating regularly. I like to cut everything small enough that the iguana will not have to fight for an hour on a single piece of food like a large piece of romaine lettuce stem which has little nutrient value. So cut up the stems and fruit pieces fine and the leafy parts medium. Also take the petals off the ovary of the hibiscus flower. You may also find that it will not eat insects. Similis start off as mainly insectivores and become mainly vegetarian as they mature. Another trick maybe to not feed the iguana every day. Try not giving food for a couple of days and then introduce food, this may stimulate aggressive feeding. Try also dropping red hibiscus directly in front of it without causing it to run and step away where it cannot see you.

Hope this helps,

Manny

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