Kingsnake.com - Herpforum - Green Tree Pythons https://forums.kingsnake.com/forum.php?catid=78 Male combat? https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2116251

Original post by Herpetoculture1 — 2026-03-17 15:09:02 GMT

Im looking for any experience experience keepers may have with male combat. physical aggression with green tree pythons. I had a young male literally try to kill a much larger male (Jayapura) - something I had not seen before. Any literature that addresses this?

Thanks -
-----
Joe Monahan
Design Help and Myths Busted: https://herpetocultureinc.com
Simple Bioactive: https://www.youtube.com/@simplebioactive4017

Reply by bmcbioscience — 2026-07-17 12:00:26 GMT

Hi Joe,

You likely realize that GTPs can be individualistic when it comes to their temperament in captivity. I’ve not observed combat in male GTPs like I have male JCPs.

Last fall I accidentally paired two male m.viridis, they actually locked twice lol. They mostly chased eachother around the cage and would perch away from eachother when resting. I’ve observed similar behavior with two females only they never tried the twisty tale locks like the males tried.

Anyway, that’s my observations on the topic. Hope you are doing well and glad to see ya here in the kjngsnake forums.

v/r
Bruce

Reply by bmcbioscience — 2026-07-17 12:00:23 GMT

Hi Joe,

You likely realize that GTPs can be individualistic when it comes to their temperament in captivity. I’ve not observed combat in male GTPs like I have male JCPs.

Last fall I accidentally paired two male m.viridis, they actually locked twice lol. They mostly chased eachother around the cage and would perch away from eachother when resting. I’ve observed similar behavior with two females only they never tried the twisty tale locks like the males tried.

Anyway, that’s my observations on the topic. Hope you are doing well and glad to see ya here in the kjngsnake forums.

v/r
Bruce

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]]> 2026-07-17T12:00:26+00:00 Herpetoculture1 Terrarium question https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2115389

Original post by Rdm — 2019-12-15 13:37:22 GMT

Hey everyone, I'm new on the forum but have had my GTP for some time now. Perfectly healthy snake, easily handled (even by my 4 yr old) and eats everytime. I recently swapped its enclosure style to a more decorated and natural looking cage vs my sterile PVC perch and paper towel style before. I've made a more natural look with fake greenery and coconut husk and some realistic (although fake) branches. Now my snake spends all it's time in one favorite spot only. Rarely moves to the hot side. In the past on the PVC perches, he moved over every once in a while...now nothing! Like I made a paradise for a Homer Simpson snake...lazy. Still eats and has the same temperament - but doesnt move around 99.999$ of the time. At least in the previous setup he would shimmy back and forth on the top perch every so often.

Should I go back to the sterile style of cage with almost zero enrichment? Lol. I thought the added plants and branches would entice a little more freedom...but it seems to have done the opposite.

Any thoughts?

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]]> 2019-12-15T13:37:22+00:00 Rdm Concerns about Growth Rate & Adult Size https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2113135

Original post by Manasa — 2018-03-30 05:31:01 GMT

Hey GTP Lovers,

I have some concerns about the size/growth rate of my Green Tree Python (Captive-bred, Aru). I got the snake as a baby and believe that it is a female (see below). She is 4 years old but weighs only about 455 grams (~3.5-4 feet long). Does this seem normal/healthy to other GTP keepers/breeders? Even if it is a male, this seems light for a 4 year old, based on my research.

Extra Notes:

SEX: The snake has not been sexed by popping or probing, though I have been calling her a female. She was one of the largest in her clutch and behavior/anatomy would also support the theory that it is a female (evidence listed below).
1. She's not very active, typically spending most of her time on one perch and just dropping her head down at night and assuming the S-curve hunting position. 2. She has never refused food. 3. I have never seen hemipenes on her sheds. 4. Her tail is tapered below the vent.

FEEDING: I have followed quite closely to suggested feeding schedules (every 5-7 days as a baby, then gradually moving to about 2 feeding per month at this point).

Reply by AJ01 — 2018-06-10 14:18:35 GMT

Having kept a number of different locality type GTP's, I fully understand your concern about weight and size. However, with that being said, you cant judge all GTP's by what the "book says"!

Some grow faster, some never attain the "normal" size for a locality. Some never seem to add weight. They are like people, everyone is different!

Question. Are you looking to breed? If not, then does the sex really matter? If you still want the animal sexed then 4 years of age is plenty old enough to have the animal "probed" by a Vet and/or breeder that knows what he/she is doing.

Weight: When you feed every 2 weeks, What are you feeding? I feed my males a medium rat about every 5-7 days when they will eat. (Most males go off feed every year at some point when the have reached sexual maturity).
Females get two (2) medium rats every feeding. Most would eat more! I feed them whe they start showing feeding behavior signs (ie: Hanging "S" curve posture). I don't worry if it's been 5 days, 7 days or 2 weeks. I feed them, regardless of the elasped time between meals!!!

Size: I know Greg Maxwell's great book on GTP's says they can reach 6 foot. I've had a bunch of locality type Aru animals. Still do and NONE are close to six foot!! Most are in the 5 foot range...maybe. They are indeed what appears to be one of the most "laid back" race/locality of GTP.

GTP's are truly fascinating animals. I've been keeping and breeding them for over 20 years. Enjoy your animal. They are generally long-lived individuals when given proper care. I have an Aru male that has been in my collection for more than 15 years. Still eats like a champ. And shows no signs of slowing down.

I wish you luck in your GTP keeping!!
Andy

Reply by Manasa — 2018-03-30 11:16:49 GMT

*Correction* She weighs about 520 grams.

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]]> 2018-06-10T14:18:35+00:00 Manasa Looking for a CBB Green Tree Python https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2112362

Original post by Devon2323 — 2017-04-14 03:28:26 GMT

Hi I am looking for a CBB Green Tree Python. Mostly Arus, Manokwaris, or Jayapuras. Looking to spend around $300-$500. Please txt me at 7069492740 if you have or know anyone with any of these for sale!

Reply by viridispython — 2018-12-07 20:17:31 GMT

We have some nice USCBB Manokwari and Cyclops green tree pythons available for sale.
ViridisPython

Reply by AJ01 — 2017-05-04 14:27:21 GMT

Looking For!!!

You might be able to obtain/find a "Farm Bred" animal in that price range, from a wholesaler, however, I don't think you will find any USA CBB GTP's in that range, not even Biaks.

I produce a select number of GTP's each year. Most of mine are locality/race type crosses. Keep watching the GTP section. I should have eggs hatching in about 20 days.

I wish you luck on your endevour. I'll warn you, GTP's are addictive!!

Andy

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]]> 2018-12-07T20:17:31+00:00 Devon2323 Recommend Seller? https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2111521

Original post by daemongrin — 2016-07-04 18:48:02 GMT

Howdy all! Been thinking about getting a GTP (been back and forth about getting one for ohhh 10 years give or take) and want to obtain from a reputable source if I finally take the leap. I'm not looking to get the next best designer or anything like that. Honestly the only thing I really look for is captive bred in the US, imports kind of give me pause. Does anyone have any seller recommendations (if you've had positive experience with cb imports feel free to recommend those as well)?

Most appreciated,
Geoff

Reply by AJ01 — 2016-08-11 21:49:47 GMT

You can view my ads for USA CBB GTP's here on Kingsnake. You can also view my "Vendor's Recommendations" here also. The only GTP's I ever offer for sale are produced by me. No imports. No "farm bred".
Thanks
Andy

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]]> 2016-08-11T21:49:47+00:00 daemongrin Help With New GTP (Think he is sick) https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2111120

Original post by burnen1 — 2016-03-18 03:46:14 GMT

I recently got a 6 month old GTP after 2 weeks or so I noticed his skin was a little wrinkly & he started to shed. I was a little surprised because his eyes didn't cloud up first. That shed was not good at all it came off in little chunks & he never did have a full shed. I increased the humidity some & he stayed wrinkly for another 3 weeks. During this time he ate every 7 days & only refused food once right before the shed. Last week he ate then regurgitated the next day. I also noticed right above his tail seems to be swollen but the snake has not deficated. for the entire 5 weeks I have had him he has deficated regularly as well until now. I think he is dehydrated & have soaked him along with regular misting & maintain good humidity 75-95% along with a basking area of 84 degrees. Any suggestions? Please help.

Reply by Bcboidae — 2016-04-11 11:23:03 GMT

I never mist my GTPS and I never had a shedding problem. Humidity and heat are increasing bacteria and virus development. Check your temperatures. Are 84°F on the hotspot? Don’t go below 78 on the coldspot. Regurgitation can lead to a respiratory infection. So check daily if you hear your snake breathing or if you see any bubble on his mouth. If so drive him to the vet. Don’t give him any food for 2 more weeks. Wait until he is in chasing mode. Give him a smaller prey than usual. At 6 months, it should still eat pinkies or small fuzzies. Too big preys can cause regurgitation.

Reply by burnen1 — 2016-03-18 03:48:14 GMT

Just wanted to also add since he regurgitated 5 days ago he has not moved from his perch & now looks like he may be shedding again (his eyes are starting to get a blueish color to them.

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]]> 2016-04-11T11:23:03+00:00 burnen1 2015 Manokwari x Aru Ontogenic change https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2110941

Original post by AJ01 — 2016-01-30 16:52:05 GMT

This animal is about 7 months old. This is what I expected out of this bunch. Very pleased!!

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]]> 2016-01-30T16:52:05+00:00 AJ01 2015 Manokwari x Aru Clutch https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2110607

Original post by AJ01 — 2015-10-21 21:46:09 GMT

One of the typical neonates from this clutch.
Dam is a nice blue dorsal striped laid back puppy!
Sire is a nice lime green with tons of white speckling and blue highlights all over him.
Should be really nice adults.

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]]> 2015-10-21T21:46:09+00:00 AJ01 New GTP with hopes for a colorful adult https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2110239

Original post by pinelandsghost — 2015-07-28 00:39:51 GMT

I have been on the lookout for a male GTP to pair up with my female Aru. Its not that there is any challenge to finding a male GTP, I was just waiting for the one that would make me say Wow!
At this past show in White Plains I may have found him, or not.
I found this male which is a little larger than my Aru was when I got her. She was completely green when I got her and I reasoned that this may be a male that will retain a lot of its yellow into adulthood. I really rolled the dice on this one. 3 bills shelled out and not knowing what the dame or sire looked like or having any background info whatsoever on this one. What I knew or it was what I had in my hand, he's very yellow, solid and active.
Yes I rolled the dice hoping for a 10 the hard way.
Ok 2 weeks in and he's finally settled in and feeding. Bad news is he has mites. Oh well I've dealt with worse and this is an easy fix.
Hopefully now the worst that will happen next is he will complete the color change and be an typical GTP. I would like to hear your opinion on whether there is any merit in my reasoning in comparing his size to that which my Aru was when her color change was complete and will he retain the yellow into adulthood?
Heres some pics Mike.

Reply by AJ01 — 2015-08-03 21:17:05 GMT

It would be extremely difficult to "guess" at any type of adult color at this age. Different locality animals undergo ontogenic color changes at different stages in their lives.
Biak type locality animals are extremely slow in undergoing the color change, some taking as long as 3 years.
It's always a good thing to know about lineage when it comes to purchasing a Green Tree from someone. Folks who breed GTP's will gladly show you the parents to the neonate you are buying, or should be happy too in MHO!!! Anyway...
Biak and Aru locality type animals are the two largest races of GTP found, and I include the Yapen form of these animals.
You say you gave "3" for it. Is that 300 or 3000? If you gave 300 for it my guess would be it was a locality type Biak due to coloration.
Hope this helps.
Andy

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]]> 2015-08-03T21:17:05+00:00 pinelandsghost foreign object swallowed - HELP!! https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2028573

Original post by BurpsandHerps — 2015-07-02 04:48:46 GMT

Hi all, I obtained my first GTP about six months ago, a Biak (by appearance, seller couldn't confirm), now just under a year old.

As a first-time GTP caretaker, I'd been pleased that, despite stories of them being tempermental, stress-sensitive and aggressive, I'd had exactly zero problems. Until now.

One cautionary I'd come across frequently was the risk of over-feeding, given their largely sedentary habits (although I was surprised, given all those warnings, how active it was at night). Anyway, seems I took those warnings too much to heart, and may have been UNDERfeeding it, because the other morning, I woke to find that the snake had eaten a kitchen sponge I kept in a saucer to keep the humidity up (and yes, there's also a large water bowl, living plants, etc.). It's also possible one or more orchid bark chips were consumed.

Fortunately, everything possibly consumed is organic. My concerns are 1) the size of the sponge - it's a standard kitchen sponge, not that big, but again, the snake is barely larger than a neonate, the width not much bigger than a Sharpie, 2) the absorbent nature of cellulose - the sponge would have been saturated with water at the time, but I'm still concerned it could absorb enough of the snake's fluids to cause problems, 3) bacteria that could be present on a constantly saturated sponge, and 4) if orchid bark was consumed, obviously the rough edges are a concern.

My thoughts are that the powerful stomach acids should at least reduce the object'(s)' size(s) and smooth out any rough edges, and that even if I could induce defecation, the more time spent digesting before defecation, the better. But I'm no veterinarian, and would love to hear others' thoughts, or just get some reassurance that there's not much to be done at this point but wait and hope for the best.

Sorry for the novella, and any and all replies are most appreciated.

Btw, I've followed Kingsnake for my many years of herp collecting, but this situation prompted me to sign up so I could post.

Thanks!
BurpsAndHerps

Reply by AJ01 — 2015-07-15 16:43:42 GMT

Eating a sponge, I must say that's a new one on me. I've heard of large constrictors eating "heating pads" and other objects. Mainly because they smell like a "prey item", rat, rabbit and so on.

You are correct, the bacteria from the sponge may cause slimy loose bowels that stink to beat the band. But remember, these guys drink out of mud puddles in the "wild".
Passing the sponge might also be a "trick" since it's hard to tell how much will be digested by the acidic environment of the gut. However, with that being said, remember these "juices" can dissolve bone. So, if the sponge is organic, it just might fully dissolve the sponge and pass the problem without a hitch.
Or the GTP might regurgitate it.

Keeping that in mind, you can always take your GTP to a knowledgeable herp vet in your area, if you can find one. Most of the time this is easier said than done.

As for me, I never use things like sponges to maintain higher humidity levels. A large water bowl will suffix. Also GTP's will soak on occasions. I use PURE cypress mulch as a substrate. This allows me to monitor the environment simply by looking at the color change of the cypress as it begins to dry out. I spray (mist) my GTP and Blood enclosures everyday first thing in the morning. Thus allowing humidity changes as the day progresses toward evening and dark.

I wish you luck with your GTP. Hope all works out.

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]]> 2015-07-15T16:43:42+00:00 BurpsandHerps Female gtp acting strange https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2028375

Original post by bugbreath — 2015-05-30 05:55:03 GMT

Hey y'all

I have a three year old female that has been acting strange. She has become extremely active at night and hasn't ate a single rodent in a month. In fact last week I left a live rat pup but she killed it and left it. I read other forums and it seems that she shows signs of wanting to mate.

Her temps are fine and I mist her twice a day. I havent had any complaints with her besides her recent hunger strike. How long should I wait before I take her to a vet?

Thanks in advance.

Reply by AJ01 — 2015-07-15 16:24:54 GMT

Chances are it is simply a matter of her looking for a mate. Some female and males will go off feed during breeding season. If she is of proper weight and the temps are within parameters, she will resume feeding once the urge to mate has passed.
My suggestion. Get her a mate! LOL

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]]> 2015-07-15T16:24:54+00:00 bugbreath Green Tree Python Question https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2027434

Original post by jmarcol — 2014-12-12 17:59:46 GMT

Hi guys,

I am about to get a GTP that's about 1 year old. I have the option of getting a Yellow Lereh or a red Aru X Biak. Can you tell me which one will have the nicest colors as adult? I like blues and light greens. Thank you.

Reply by AJ01 — 2015-02-25 14:38:15 GMT

Biak x Aru wouldn't upload. However, if you want to have a look at it, you can view them in my pics listed here.

Thanks
Andy

Reply by AJ01 — 2015-02-25 14:33:30 GMT

Biak x Aru

Reply by AJ01 — 2015-02-25 14:27:06 GMT

Coloration and pattern of neonate GTP's can at times be quite misleading. I've held back a number of these little jewels over the years thinking that this "might be the one", only to find myself looking at a somewhat ordinary looking GTP at adulthood.
(If there is such a thing as an "ordinary" GTP!!!)

As for me, I'd go with the red neonate from the Aru x Biak mixture. I'll post a pic of a 2 year old I held back from such a pairing in 2013. This particular animal has a ton of white specks, (thanks to the Aru), and is still undergoing it's ontogenic color change. (Biaks take forever for this to complete).

Sorry for the late post to your question. I don't check the forums as often as I should.
Good luck with your choice. GTP's are wonderful creatures no matter what "flavor" you choose!!
Andy

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

]]> 2015-02-25T14:38:15+00:00 jmarcol Aru Type (Race) Locality https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2026003

Original post by AJ01 — 2014-08-10 14:00:51 GMT

A better than average Aru.(If I say so myself). LOL These guys are pretty laid back in the attitude department. Pure race Aru neonates can be difficult to start feeding. They have a strong "fight or flight" response and they tend to be more "flight" than "fight" so be gentle and patient with Neonates.

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]]> 2014-08-10T14:00:51+00:00 AJ01 red babies versus yellow babies https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2023857

Original post by HofR — 2014-05-17 21:57:43 GMT

We just had our first clutch of GTP babies. m/Wamena x f/?; 10 in all. Much to our surprise they are all red. We thought that clutches typically include both colors and that yellow is more common than red. Anyone have any science/data to shed light on this for us? Were we just misinformed?

Reply by AJ01 — 2014-06-03 14:35:51 GMT

This clutch was of mixed lineage. Sire was an Aru type animal. And a yellow neonate. Dam was a biak type animal. Red neonate. 20 little GTP's were produced from this pairing and none were red.
Yes, you can breed for red neonates but it doesn't always occur.

Reply by AJ01 — 2014-06-03 14:27:49 GMT

Certain "races" or localities of GTP'S due have a tendency to throw more red neonates than others. (Biaks, Yapens and other island forms). For a long time it was thought that Aru locality (race) type animals only produced yellow neonates. We now know this to not true.
Lineage of the producing parents can also sometimes be hard to track and with more and more people these days getting into GTP's and buying farm bred animals from importers, keeping track of actual localities (races) may completely fall apart.
One must remember that "locality" is a relative term when applied to GTP's since a lot of the time it refers to the city or port of export!! I'm like Greg Maxwell, I think "race" would suit GTP's better than locality. And speaking of Greg...
Greg Maxwell produced all sorts of different colored neonates in single clutches. Animals breed for color, pattern, size or whatever, soon blur the race or locality bloodlines.
I've been breeding and keeping these guys for quite a while. No matter what color the neonate, they all get my blood pumping! I hope that you enjoy your new "Chondros". Congrats on producing your first clutch of GTP neonates.
Andy

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]]> 2014-06-03T14:35:51+00:00 HofR Manokwari or Manakwari?? https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2022678

Original post by AJ01 — 2014-04-08 13:33:31 GMT

Okay...enough of this!!
The correct name, spelling, locality or whatever you want to call it is...Manokwari. Manokwari is the capital of West Papua, New Guinea. Average temp there is 79.3 degrees. Average rainfall there is 102 inches per year. And the average humidity is a muggy 86.3 percent.
GTP's from this "locality" tend to have a blue colorration along thier dorsals and are typical of the mainland forms being smaller than the so-called "Island Races" or localities.

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]]> 2014-04-08T13:33:31+00:00 AJ01 Grounded - behavioral? https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2020428

Original post by lilbalrog — 2013-12-27 01:06:45 GMT

Hi. I've been keeping a pair of Biak GTP's for 7 years that I got off Craigslist. Two years ago I acquired an Aru GTP again off Craigslist for a questionably low price. When I picked him up the previous owner had no idea what he was doing. The animal was in a glass terrestrial setup (no perches) with no heat resting on an AstroTurf rug. He was a good weight and had good muscle tone so I took him.

So the problem is he has been grounded 99% of the last 2 years. Now he eats great, weighs about 1.4 kg, and is in a 2'x2'x30" seamed wood terrarium with many perches and vines. Hot spot at 84 and cool spot in low 70's or so. A reptile friend recently suggested humidity may be a problem so I built a humidifier setup for all my gtps and each cage has dry hours of about 40%, the humidity peaks at 85% (maybe 90% for moments), and is most humid at night (using timers).

He likes the humidifier and a week after installation he was perched, but after I handled him today he's back on the ground. What could be wrong? I'm beginning to think the abusive lack of care by the previous owner just taught him this grounding behavior?

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]]> 2013-12-27T01:06:45+00:00 lilbalrog Albino GTP https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2014294

Original post by harbor reptiles — 2013-08-02 20:51:18 GMT

What ever happened to this project? Have I missed them being advertised ?

Reply by AJ01 — 2013-09-18 12:34:18 GMT

As to my personal knowledge, no visual albinos have been offered for sale so far. There are "hets" out there. I believe that Rico Walder has some on his website and there may be others that I don't know about. Damon Salceies was the first to produce living albinos in January of 2002. Two were hatched, one failed to thrive. These albino producing individuals originated from the Barker's. They were/are locality specific animals from the Merauke locality.
Several folks, including Trooper Walsh, Marcial Mendez and Greg Maxwell ended up with offspring out of these animals. However, much to the loss of the GTP world, Mr. Maxwell has sold his collection and no longer breeds GTP's.

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]]> 2013-09-18T12:34:18+00:00 harbor reptiles Trying to sell my GTP https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2014276

Original post by nhollis1113 — 2013-08-02 17:24:23 GMT

I have a beautiful adult green tree python and I am not sure how much to sell him for. He is about 3.5 feet long, healthy and TAME. He is handled on a daily basis and is extremely mild mannered. I don't know too much about snakes but he looks like a standard GTP to me, very green with bright blue spots underneath. I wish I could keep him but, unfortunately, I have to let him go. Can anyone give me advice on how much I can ask for him?

Reply by nhollis1113 — 2013-08-02 17:25:51 GMT

I forgot to add, he is about 5 years old

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]]> 2013-08-02T17:25:51+00:00 nhollis1113 Mites!! Please help https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2013523

Original post by candoia — 2013-07-22 22:31:29 GMT

So I don't know what to do - I have an adult GTP I've had for about seven years that has always been very healthy. I keep him in a naturalistic enclosure with cypress mulch as substrate (as I do with almost all of my snakes). I always treat the mulch with Provent-A-Mite before the snakes go in - it has worked wonders for years. Not long ago I noticed mites on my GTP, as well as a few of my other snakes. I cleaned cages and used new bark treated with Provent-A-Mite. The mites have disappeared on all of the snakes except the GTP. I have tried soaking him, and all that does is drown a few mites and concentrate the rest on his head. I have increased the amount of Provent-A-Mite in his cage when cleaning it but the mites are still there and they seem to be increasing in number. The snake is otherwise very healthy and alert and eats like a champ.

I'd like to see these mites go away. I suspect that I need to change the type of substrate I use, though I don't like newspaper or expensive Repti-Bark. I'm open to any suggestions.

Thank you,

Joe

Reply by candoia — 2013-07-24 17:32:23 GMT

Thanks Andy! I had a nice long reply but I experienced a glitch - oops.

I will try what you've recommended.

Joe

Reply by AJ01 — 2013-07-24 16:24:18 GMT

Aren't they a pain??? Well...with that being said, I'll offer my two cents worth. The substrate you use is great. But before I use it, I wash it, treat it, and then let it air dry. I use it on all my GTP's except for new arrivals which get nothing but newspaper.

Prevent-A-Mite is good stuff. Works great, I use it. But I also use a product called Natural Chemistry Reptile Spray. It contains Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate and Undecylenic Acid. These are very effective in the eradication of mites. And the plus side is, it is not harmful to the snake. I buy this stuff by the gallon and spray the enclosure each time I clean the cage just as a precaution.

Now...getting rid of your mites...completely disassemble your cage! New substrate, new furniture, new plants... everything.
Bleach the enclosure, rinse completely, air dry in the sun! Nature works best! The spray it with Prevent-A-Mite and close it up. Once it drys, re-eastablish your cage.
As for the snake. Soak him. Treat him with the Spray listed above. About 3 or 4 days after that, spray him and the enclosure again. Thats should end your mite problem.

One last note. DO NOT spray the spray listed above into or into the eyes and face of the snake. Follow the directions listed on the container.
Hope you find this useful
Andy

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]]> 2013-07-24T17:32:23+00:00 candoia GTP Urgent help needed https://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=2012570

Original post by SLindsey92 — 2013-07-03 02:26:34 GMT

First, i'm sorry this post will be very long, and thank you for those of you who take the time to read it and respond. Second, please note that I am looking for a vet so if you know of one in the East Texas area I will gladly take recommendations as I keep getting "we don't see that type of snake" from all the 'reptile' vets around here.

In February my husband agreed for Valentines day that I could spend the money to buy a Green Tree Python, something I have wanted for several years. The excitement began and I contacted Ben Siegel Reptiles as I have had several snakes from him and they have been amazing animals- I pick one out, they even agree to hold the snake for me the following 2 weeks while i'm waiting for my tanks to arrive to our new house. Score! So March 7th my little AruXBiak arrives and i'm SOOO excited- after finding out her feeding schedule, I go purchase the needed things (new water bowl, substrate, and a humidifier. She was in a 12x12x14 exo with a screen door and a screen top- this didnt hold humidity worth a crap so she is now in a 10x10x12 exo with a screen top, but solid doors. She has two perches available, the top stays between 83-85 degrees, the second perch stays around 79-81 degrees and the bottom of the tank is maintained around 77. Humidity is a constant 65-75% with maximums twice daily of 95% with misting. We maintain this by misting, heat mat under water dish and having a wet towel between the screen part of her tank and the heat lamp. The Lady at Ben's told me they fed weekly so March 12 I fed a F/T pinky, she ate fine but regurgitated it- I contributed this to stress at first. I later contacted Ben about minor skin folds and was instructed that I was using a too hot bulb for her tank size and went and bought the 25watt that was recommended. April 18th Contacted them again due to her still not eating, at this point I had tried braining, wiggling, heating the head, teasing and even live. Was informed it was due to feeding her in a different enclosure, and that she was eating fine when they shipped her and had even ate for me once.... so I followed the instructions of wait 5 days (ignore her these days) and try again in her tank. attempted this 3 times and still got no feeding response. On April 26th I discovered what looked to be the start of scale rot on the very tip of her nostril, applied rot guard. On May 5th the spot was getting bigger and looked worse, so I sent pictures to Ben and simply received the response "too humid". on June 16th the lady I buy my mice from gave me the number of a guy in Dallas who breeds Chondros who instructed me to do a 30 minute soak every 3 days in Duramycin, which would eliminate both scale and mouth rot. She seemed dehydrated so we began to administer water daily outside her tank. She was improving, than on June 23rd she seemed to overnight become lethargic and very wrinkled again. Soaked her for 45 minutes in straight water, than soaked her daily to re-hydrate continuing antibiotic and waiting on her to shed. Her eyes have been hazy since the end of may. I have found several reptile vets in the area but all give me the same response of they do not see that type of snake, as of may 22 she is 16" long her perching posture is normal, and she moves around in her cage some what- typically just turning her body to face the other direction. I am close to Tyler Texas, willing to travel to Dallas, or Shreveport if need be- The following is her record since I received her.

March 7- arrived
March 12- Fed & regurgitated
March 28- Bm, VERY watery
March 30- Shed, dry had to remove by soaking and peeling it off.
March 30- Bm, normal
April 7- rejected mouse (no interest)
April 15- rejected mouse (no interest)
April 16- Bm, normal
April 17- rejected mouse (still no interest)
April 19- Bm, minimal amount
April 20- rejected mouse (no interest)
April 22- rejected mouse (showed some interest)
*would flick tongue over but never would strike*
April 25- rejected mouse (no interest)
April 28- force fed (mouse inserted into the snakes mouth until she swallowed)
May 1- Bm, very dry and hard
May 4- force fed
May 7- Bm, normal
May 8- rejected mouse (no interest)
May 14- Bm, normal
May 15- rejected mouse (no interest)
May 21- Shed, dry again removed with water and peeling
May 22- 16" long
May 25- force fed
May 31- Bm, normal
June 3- Bm, normal
June 19- force fed
June 24- Bm, small amount
June 26- Bm, normal
July 1- rejected food (no interest)

April-rot guard treatment & soaking
June 17- Duramycin 10
45 minute soak
June 18- Water
20 minute soak
June 20- Duramycin 10
45 minute soak
June 21- water
3 10ml syringes by mouth (oral syringes used for administering medication to children held up to mouth creating a 'drip' of water)
June 24- Duramycin 10
45 minute soak
June 26- Water
20 minute soak
2 10ml syringes by mouth
June 27- Water
2 10ml syringes by mouth
June 30- Duramycin 10
20 minute soak
July 2- water
30 minute soak
2 10ml syringes by mouth

If anyone can explain how to upload pictures I will do so- she is looking rough, open to all suggestions- Doesn't seem like the breeder is going to be much more help but I have emailed him as well. I will try my best to answer any and all questions that might help in finding the cause to this problem- just want my little girl to get feeling better.

Thanks,
S

Reply by AJ01 — 2013-07-20 20:50:00 GMT

There is a vet in Whitehouse, I cannot remember his name but at one time he was the vet for Caldwell Zoo. Your GTP is probably a wc import. I don't believe Ben breeds GTP's.
It is dehydrated. Forget screened enclosure! I house all my adults in Vision Models 222, 322 or 332's. Hatchlings are kept in Steralite shoe boxes (6qt) and then transferred to 15qt as they grow. Neonate GTP's will dehydrate VERY quickly. If dehydrated, they will not eat.
Also clean your enclosures and equipment with a Chlorhexidine solution. I purchase this stuff by the gallon. In the gallon size one ounce to a gallon of water makes a great cleaner/anti-bacterial.
Hope this helps! And yes....I breed GTP's!!

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