>>You mentioned soaking him? How should I do that?



Soaking is good daily. It gets them in the habit for when they are older and makes keeping a cage clean easier.



>>I'd also like to mention that I got a therm for the cage now and legitimate nutritious food for iguanas and box turtles. I sprinkled some calcium on it, but wasn't sure how much I should. Afterwards, I sprayed the food with my spray bottle to make sure the dust settled in. I think I'm doing good for him. He's acting better still than he did the day before after taking the medicine. I'm pretty sure he's ate alittle bit. The thermometer is only reading about room temperature, too, but it can't really be that temp. under the heat lamp. It's directly under the light. I dunno what to do, and I'm starting to worry about the temp for him because my room has to be cold for the rest of the house to be tolerable.



A few things,



Diet - In all honesty there is very little that is better than a fresh food diet. They are herbivorous, so their natural diet is plant matter.



Thermometers - Get a nice temp gun. You can get them as cheap as $20 and they read the spot you want read and not the outside influences. Thermometers on a glass tank get readings from outside and inside and are never fully reliable. Pro Exotics sells a nice cheap one.



UV Light Tubes do not emit heat. Laura explained in a previous post about this and how to properly mount things. Heat lamps are also needed. Be sure the dome base is Ceramic. That is VERY important. You can get them from Wal-Mart for 3 bucks.



Get a fresh fecal sample into a vet in 2 weeks for a double check on the worms. Might be good to have the iguana examined as well. If the previous iguana really did have a skin issue, its hard to say that protocols from tank to tank at a pet store were strict with hand washing between cages.
-----
Cindy

PHFaust



Email Cindy



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