Posted by:
Bluerosy
at Fri Mar 23 13:43:42 2007 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by Bluerosy ]
Do you still surf? What are some of the best places you've been?
Well besides all over california (Hollywood by the Sea in Oxnard and Radar towers on the military base were my fav's) I moved to Hawaii in 1980 and lived there for 6 years. Surfed the outer islands secret spots a lot as well as Pipe and Kaisers in the summer. I also hit Chuns reef and Jockos and one secret spot between Kaaina point and Haliewa.
I mostly traveled before moving to Hawaii. Mexican pipeline and surrounding area near Puerto Escondido were my fav's. I always enjoyed the 9 hr bus ride from Alcapulco. LOL! NOT! That was the most dangerous part. There was a 20 ' Tiger that tried to eat us while surfing in Puerto. He was in attack mode and we barely made it in. We saw the shark swim south and we waited 15 minutes and went back out. Then my friend starts screaming and points to the open ocean and i see the Tigers fin coming srraight at us. He circled all the way around knowing we would go back out. Scary.
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