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I'm moving to a place where most of my cages will be set up in a 14'x 18' basement room with no added insulation - drywall, 8' expanse of glass block window, wood floor over slab. Chicago. COLD. There is a big temperature disparity between the floor level and head level.

Most of the cages are Vision in stacks of four; most have radiant heat panels or heat tape, but I didn't size my cage heating for this cold a situation originally. I guess I'll be burning through the electricity for the heat panels and the furnace for the air heating. The cages will be arranged in back-to-back rows with most pulled one to two feet away from the exterior walls. Structural modifications to the room are out of the question.

My Question: If I put some (1"?) polystyrene sheet insulation directly on top of the wood floor and then place the cages on top of that, will this arrangement produce moisture and mold under the insulation which will ruin the wood flooring?

Thanks in advance for your help. Feel free to offer any other suggestions you feel might be pertinent.

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-Joan

I'd actually raise them off the floor if you can, even by a couple of inches.
Mold underneath the polystyrene would depend on what the humidity is like down there- if the window is badly sealed or it's old, you might have an issue. Best thing to do is try!

I have a house that gets VERY cold in the winter; I ended up blocking the windows in the snake room with the plastic insulator shrinkwrap stuff, with blankets over that. I also (and I think this was more helpful) used foil covered foam insulation on the outside walls of the cages that weren't up against any other cages. This actually really did wonders for heat retention. Not the prettiest solution, but saved us a LOT of futile heating.

Did I mention that the ceilings are really low, too? lol

Yeah, as ugly as it can get, I see myself sealing off the windows one way or the other and covering the exterior of some cages with insulation. Thanks for the prompt response.

>>I'd actually raise them off the floor if you can, even by a couple of inches.
>>Mold underneath the polystyrene would depend on what the humidity is like down there- if the window is badly sealed or it's old, you might have an issue. Best thing to do is try!
>>
>>I have a house that gets VERY cold in the winter; I ended up blocking the windows in the snake room with the plastic insulator shrinkwrap stuff, with blankets over that. I also (and I think this was more helpful) used foil covered foam insulation on the outside walls of the cages that weren't up against any other cages. This actually really did wonders for heat retention. Not the prettiest solution, but saved us a LOT of futile heating.
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-Joan

It helps alot to attach (velcro or other method) reflectix to the outside back wall and sides of each cage if you can. Will help with your heating costs. Works best if it is inside the cage, but that is not always an option.

Not sure about the moisture. You could lay down some polyethylene sheeting (sold for use under wood floors), lay pieces of MDF down over that, then the styrene foam, then the cage and test it that way. Check periodically to see if the MDF is getting wet. Not sure why it would, but I don't live in a cold climate.

Hi Mark,

I was hoping you'd reply as I've always liked the advice you've given others over the years.

I must say, reflectix on the interior of those darn poorly-insulating Vision cages would be a good thing for heat retention if it wouldn't be a pain to keep clean or look so tacky. Although, speaking of tacky-looking, I've saved the plastic encased fiber batting from frozen rodent shipments and attached it to cage exteriors to good effect in the past. Do you think reflectix on the exterior would be as good or less good?

I asked about the moisture because in the past, when I laid regular white styrofoam rigid sheets (also from rodent shipments lol) between cold exterior plaster walls and cages, it got moldy after a while, presumably from condensation.

Anywho, for starters, I'm leaning toward putting that polyisocyanurate foam core laminated between aluminum foil facers underneath the cages.

Best,
Joan

>>It helps alot to attach (velcro or other method) reflectix to the outside back wall and sides of each cage if you can. Will help with your heating costs. Works best if it is inside the cage, but that is not always an option.
>>
>>Not sure about the moisture. You could lay down some polyethylene sheeting (sold for use under wood floors), lay pieces of MDF down over that, then the styrene foam, then the cage and test it that way. Check periodically to see if the MDF is getting wet. Not sure why it would, but I don't live in a cold climate.

Hi Joan,
Gee thanks! I see my advice was bad though, the moisture is on the cold floor, so poly sheet does nothing to help that. OK, so now you need a stand.

You can make a base for each cage stack. 2x4's and 1/2 inch plywood. Glue 2x4s's (smaller width glued to plywood) around the bottom perimeter of the plywood to match the perimeter size of the cage above it so that most of the cage corner weight rests above the 2x4s. And you can attach nail-on plastic furniture guides below the 2x4s so the wood does not touch the floor directly to avoid mold. Then you can insulate with foam the bottom of the cage stand in the area between the 2x4s. Cover the top of the cage stand with whatever - utility carpet or more foam.

Good luck!

BTW, my snake room gets fairly cold in Winter, so I know the challenge when keeping warm-climate species. Insulation of the cage is so very helpful during the cold months. I had to elevate my cages too as described above, and it really helps.

Oh Nooooooooo. Build something? Me?

Thanks. Sounds like a sensible solution. Moving in January in Chicago, though, is pure madness. Oh well, it'll be over soon enough.
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-Joan

Best results would be to create a "plastic room" within the room available. 2 x 4's on the ceiling and floor to create space needed. Use heavy duty plastic for the walls.
Small wood strips to make sliding doors. Will increase humidity, but leave small open space to air out. If you can't do it yourself then hire someone. Cost is minimal and you will have the heated space needed. mike