at Tue May 3 08:28:40 2011 [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by mojoreptile ]
I am by no means an expert on fimbriatus but I do have a female that is LTC for 1.5 years of which I have owned now for 3 months and her weight has increased in my care and she has shed several times. I also have a lone male coming in from LLL tomorrow that I believe accompanied your pair. I am setting up a cage for him currently to quarantine.
The biggest thing I would do different is to get rid of any night light and heat source. I use a single UVB 2.0/ 13 watt bulb sitting on top of my screen cage. Prior to the warm weather, I was using a 26 watt version of the same bulb. Unless you live in a cold area, I don't think a heat source is needed. My temps run from 72 at night to 79 during the day. My light turns on at 9am and goes off at 4pm but I do have other tanks, cages with lights in the room that illuminate the area a few hours longer. My aim was to keep these guys cooler than my other reps. I have many reps and don’t keep a constant heat source in the cages of an any of them at this time of the year. I only add heat during mid morn and early afternoon.
I think separation of the animals can help if stressed, especially for eating. Your male is looking a bit sunken with spine showing more than I think should so it looks like he is not eating as you stated.
I have also read that you should not try to deworm a WC Uroplatus immediately if they seem to be doing well. There are several reasons for this but mainly not to stress the animal. I guess these guys are super sensitive to acclimation. I also have WC henkels leaftails and liniatus and have been following this advice. If the poop is solid, I don’t worry.
I researched around and most folks are using tall screen cages, 36 or 48" in height and cover with plastic and have a few vent holes in front and back. Most use pothos as well which is another reason to have a mild light source. I also invested in a mist system which seemed to be what everyone else is using. My Mistking turns on every 3 hours and sprays thru two nozzles for 20 seconds and keeps cage between 60-75% humidity.
Most folks use Dubia roaches for fimbriatus. I invested in a colony kit from doodlebugscritters that I found on the internet. I got ripped off from other roach sources but this was by far my best investment for a food source and the colony kit was awesome. I was desparate and had roaches overnighted because I worried my fimbriatus wouldn’t eat. Fimbriatus are huge geckos and I have been told that they really need a large food source like roaches (big wings attract their attention) and crickets alone will not suffice or the animal will be hunting constantly and you will run out of crix quickly. I hope this helps. I really think the heat source is the problem! Keep them cool at night, even down into the upper 60s if you can.
All the best!
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